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Swap valve on loaded tire? (140)

T

TheDurk

Member
I went to check air pressure on the rear tire of my 140 and CaCl came dribbling out when I removed the valve cap. I've had this tractor since new in 1966 and I've never faced this before. Tube and rim were replaced only about two years ago when original rim rusted out.

Can I just jack up the tractor with the valve at 12 o'clock and replace the valve guts? Are the guts the same as any automotive Shrader valve? Any other tips? Thanks.
 
Yes take the old one along so you get the same for replacement by jacking it up with the valve up shouldnt lose much material.
 
Just move the tractor ahead until the valve is at the top and you won't lose any fluid. As the other poster stated,take the old one with you as there are a couple of different inserts that screw into the stem,make sure you have the right one and its a simple process.
 
Well, not so simple. Only half the valve came out--probably why it was leaking in the first place. I had to let all the pressure go down and lost maybe 2 quarts--no big deal. Then a little finagling with a left hand drill bit and I got the rest out, or maybe some of it went in--but at least the neck was clear. Not enough pieces to take downtown, so I tried the only Shrader insert I had, off a spare bicycle tube, and we are now back on the ground holding all 14 lbs. of air pressure. Wheel is hosed off and drill is bathed in WD40.

Thank you both for your help. I just needed a little encouragement to go ahead.
 
The Schrader valve stems are different for liquid-filled tires.

Get to a Tractor Supply and get the valve stems marked for liquid-filled tires, and replace that one.

A bicycle valve will work in a pinch but the calcium will do something to the seal and or metal parts eventually.
 
You still need to go to TSC. or Farm and Fleet, or your local ag tire repair shop and get the right part. That bike part repair will come back to haunt you. As I recall the threads you need to use are on the outside of the valve stem that comes out of the rim. Hopefully somebody can/will post a picture of the part you need. Armand
 
(quoted from post at 19:07:01 10/20/11) You still need to go to TSC. or Farm and Fleet, or your local ag tire repair shop and get the right part. That bike part repair will come back to haunt you. As I recall the threads you need to use are on the outside of the valve stem that comes out of the rim. Hopefully somebody can/will post a picture of the part you need. Armand
Click to expand...

Well, the part that broke was threaded inside just like the bike one is now. Forgive me if this post does not make sense to me. But I will visit the shop that swapped in the new rim and tube for me and get a new insert for a liquid filled tube.

Or is it possible the shop used the wrong tube? It seems to me the stem looks just like all the others going back to the ones that came on the tractor in 1966.
 
You have the right tube because it would take forever to pump the liquid ballest thru a stamdarded car or bike tube valve. Look at where the valve stem comes thru the hole. There is a nut there that holds the valve stem firmly to the rim. Now about 1/2 to 1 in. towards you you will see a connection that can be unscrewed. Takes a plires or visegrip to loosen that connection than you can unscres by hand. The part thart that you hold in your hand ( about 1/2In. dia. and about 1-1/2in. long) is what you need to replace. What you replace was the valve core thae fits inside the piece that you are in your hand. Talk to your tire shop and they can show you the pieces (parts) that I am talking about. A water valve is totaly different than the common car or bike valve stems that you are used to. This is the best I can explain it without a picture. Armand
 
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