M clutch

The clutch on my M failed, am wondering what to expect when I break it in half. It won't disengage at all, just grinds. Happened out of the blue, worked without any issues the last time I used it and a couple of weeks later when I started it, no clutch at all. The linkage is within tolerances. Any feedback would be appreciated.

You can R&R the clutch on a streight m without splitting it, the clutch is to big on a sm to get it out the bottom.

Sounds like the pilot bearing nestled in the flywheel has seized.

(quoted from post at 02:32:54 10/15/11) ...It won't disengage at all, just grinds. Happened out of the blue, worked without any issues the last time I used it and a couple of weeks later when I started it, no clutch at all. The linkage is within tolerances. Any feedback would be appreciated.

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If it had been working fine: Sounds like your clutch may have stuck to the flywheel which happens when a tractor sets sometimes. I would first try one of the safe methods for unsticking a stuck clutch. There are many methods of doing it but I would get the tractor warmed up to the point that it starts easily. Then start it in gear or somehow get it rolling in so you get into gear and then drive around with the clutch pushed in - climb a small incline or pull a load helps too with clutch pushed in.

I recently picked up a Farmall H on which the clutch releases so that the tractor stops, but it grinds like heck when you try to put it into gear. I have adjusted the clutch both directions, but to no avail. My temp fix has been to leave the belt pulley engaged all the time for a helpful visual aide as well as some increased drag on the tranny shafts. In short, I do not try to put the tractor into gear until I visually see the belt pulley stop spinning. This has worked well for me so far. I am also going to change the tranny fluid to the correct 90 wt for increased drag ( the current stuff in there is way too thin). Also, I am going to check the clutch fingers with a feeler gauge, but have not done it yet. They are adjustable, but you are not supposed to move them once set to specs on a new clutch install.

Sounds like your disc is stuck to the flywheel and you dont know how to unstick one. Get someone who knows how to do it not just everyone is familiar on the how to.

You do not have to break it in half. Remove the belly pump and see if you can identify the problem. The alunimum carrier for the throw-out bearing is a common problem.

You can replace the clutch and most parts without breaking the tractor in half. Less work and safer.

I appreciate the input from everybody. I had time to take a quick look this afternoon and hopefully will have time to dig into it later next week. I"ll let you know how it goes.

Updating, I pulled the belly pump this afternoon and had a chance to visually inspect the clutch. I'm not familiar enough to know how things should look but the release bearing assy moves easily and engages the 3 levers when the clutch is depressed (1st 2 pics, clutch depressed and clutch out). I assume that means the friction disc is stuck to the drive plate. Is this a symptom of a clutch that in the near future will need to be rebuilt? Also, the seal on the input shaft for the belly pump has been leaking. It looks like a the seal and bearing are held in place by a casting. Removing the cap bolts and casting would give access to that seal, or is it more complex than it looks?