I am finding that my Farmall A does not like to go into gear after I first hit the clutch when the transmission is in neutral. It will not go into any gear unless I force it in, making the gears grind a lot in the process. Then, I can drive it, use the pto, and change gears just fine without any grinding at all. But if I ever let out the clutch with the tractor in neutral, when I try to go back into any gear the same grinding process as before is repeated. It does not matter how long I wait after pressing the clutch, if I'm in neutral the gears will grind. Does this mean time to replace a clutch, or is something else causing this problem?
- Thread starter ADLM
- Start date
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I would first check for the correct free play in the clutch pedal. Then I would remove the inspection plate under the throw out bearing and check to see whats happening when you depress the clutch. Does the clutch slip? Then you probally tell if you need a new clutch,or not. Good Luck
TomH in PA
Well-known Member
Have you ever greased the throw-out bearing? If not...
JimB2
Well-known Member
- Location
- Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Hi, if clutch adjustment is correct, I would suspect
the bronze pilot bushing in the flywheel. We had a
SC with a loader and every few years we had to
replace the bronze pilot bushing. The SC and A are
very similar.
The bronze pilot bushing cannot be lubed from the
bottom.
JimB
the bronze pilot bushing in the flywheel. We had a
SC with a loader and every few years we had to
replace the bronze pilot bushing. The SC and A are
very similar.
The bronze pilot bushing cannot be lubed from the
bottom.
JimB
not saying this will cure your problem but my SA would was doing similar to what your describing,i would shift slowly to 4th gear to stop the trans. from spinning didn't clash as bad that way, but it got to the point to where that still sounded to harsh,so i added a quart of stp oil treatment to the 90 wt transmission oil because the last 90 wt poured in like 30 wt motor oil,still get some gear clash but a whole lot quieter, been working for about 10 years.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
An excessively loose freeplay adjustment on the pedal (Like 4 inches),warped disk, tight splines on the clutch shaft, stickey or bad pilot bearing in the Flywheel, worn finger pivots on one or more fingers in the clutch Pressure plate, or low transmission oil in the trans, are all possible.
Putting Fresh 120 wt oil in the trans might make it all better for cheap. If it does not help enough, it was not wasted expense. Jim
Putting Fresh 120 wt oil in the trans might make it all better for cheap. If it does not help enough, it was not wasted expense. Jim
I am unsure of how much "grinding" you are experiencing, one trick I learned is to try to place the trans into the highest gear, once it goes in, you can then shift easily into the gear you choose. It should drop into high gear after 10 to 15 seconds after pushing the clutch all the way in.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
On my 140's I wait for the xmisson to slow down after clutching, put it in 3 rd gear, then shift to 1st/2nd/rev without grinding. Rarely use 4th.
NawlensGator
Member
On my 140's I wait untill the xmission slows down after clutching, then put it in 3rd gear after wich I can shift to 1st/2nd/rev without grinding.
Thanks everyone for the insights. This one will grind in any gear, including 3rd and 4th, as well as if I just try to engage the pto. In fact, I usually engage the pto first, then I can go into any gear without trouble.
Tractor was my dad's, I wasn't around for the last 10 years or so, so I have no idea what has or hasn't been greased. I also have never done any work on a clutch before, so i'm somewhat lost here. How involved is the fix if the problem is a pilot bushing? How involved is it if the problem is a throw out bearing? Do you have to split the tractor for either of these? How difficult is replacing a clutch for a learner?
I am planning on replacing the seals and some bearings in the transmission and final drives soon anyway. Am I better off doing that, putting everything back together again and changing the gear oil to see if that will fix it before checking these other possibilities? I think I'd rather split the tractor just once!
Tractor was my dad's, I wasn't around for the last 10 years or so, so I have no idea what has or hasn't been greased. I also have never done any work on a clutch before, so i'm somewhat lost here. How involved is the fix if the problem is a pilot bushing? How involved is it if the problem is a throw out bearing? Do you have to split the tractor for either of these? How difficult is replacing a clutch for a learner?
I am planning on replacing the seals and some bearings in the transmission and final drives soon anyway. Am I better off doing that, putting everything back together again and changing the gear oil to see if that will fix it before checking these other possibilities? I think I'd rather split the tractor just once!
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Splitting is necessary for service on the clutch,
pilot bearing, throw out bearing and clutch shaft
coupling. fixing the seals and putting in the
heavier oil is a good idea. Starting it in gear with
the clutch down (with care) will minimize grinding
in the mean time. Putting a new clutch and bearings
in it when you do is a best practices option. Jim
pilot bearing, throw out bearing and clutch shaft
coupling. fixing the seals and putting in the
heavier oil is a good idea. Starting it in gear with
the clutch down (with care) will minimize grinding
in the mean time. Putting a new clutch and bearings
in it when you do is a best practices option. Jim
Owen Aaland
Well-known Member
One other thing that can cause the clutch to stick is a LITTLE bit of oil or grease on the disk. That is almost always accompanied by a grabby clutch when you try to engage it. Since you did not mention the clutch jerking as you release the pedal that most likely is not your problem.
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