560 turns....But NO spark

I just had the distributor and carb. rebuilt while I was painting my 560Gas. When I put them back in, and went to fire "er up, she turns but won"t fire.

The gap is correct, .020, the batteries are fully charged, the gas is fresh (91 octane), and I"m starting to pull what little hair I have left out.

I"ve been chasing these gremlins for 2+ weeks. When I went to test the coil today, I pulled the negative wire off(wire to distributor side) and the coil was burning hot.

WTF? Help, please.

Thanks in advance,

Matt

Sounds like you have a short in the distributor which is easy to do when you install new points. Pull your cap etc off and open and close the points and make sure there is nothing shorting them out. You can also turn the ignition on and open and close the points by hand and make sure you both see and hear a spark from the points. If you do not then take the ignition side of the coil wire off and see if you get a spark there with the points open. If you get a spark you now know 100% sure if the poits are open you have a short

Here's the coil tests I ran with my multimeter. The Condensor started low and grew to infinity as it charged.

Here's the coil tests I ran with my multimeter. The Condensor started low and grew to infinity as it charged.

Yes most coils are full of an oil based liquid so as to help keep them from shorting out and also helps to keep them a bit cooler.

check the insulating terminal that goes through dist. where wires are attached. seen that give trouble, as it would be grounding out there.

Engines stop with the pistons in one of two places on a 4 cyl, and one of 3 places on a 6. This is where the the piston enters a compression stroke but stops before it completes the task. another cylinder that didn't fire was on compression but went over tdc to power stroke (with no spark) but expanded the compression air, pushing down that piston. The points are normally closed at that engine position (midway between strokes and stopped).
If the Key or ignition Switch is left on, the coil will get full voltage 100% of the time. If running the coil is "on" less than 1/2 the total time (dwell). And the air is moving around the coil when running.
A coil takes about 10 minutes of this torture before getting very hot. It may be just fine, if it works and makes reliable spark, no issue.
The plug wires must be in the 153624. #1 toward radiator.
Set #1 at TDC by pulling #1 plug, putting your thumb over the hole, and bumping (quick on off of start position) the starter around until your thumb feels compression, then turn the crank till the pointer is on the TDC timing mark.
No figure out where the rotor is pointing and reset the timing. Jim

You probably need to bring No1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke. Then take a look at the rotor to see where it's pointing. If it's not pointing to the No1 plug tower you need to remove the distributor and rotate the rotor so it's at the No1 plug wire on the cap.

Once you have it installed clean those points with some 320 wet or dry. Hal