The rear left wheel on my Farmall A has a wobble in it. I can rock it back and forth when it sits still and i can tell its definitely the axle that has some "slop" in it. So i looked at a parts manual. Apparently there are two bearings in there, along with seals. Also, i think I have a leak above the axle where the differential exits the transmission case. Additionally, the brakes are shot, so i might as well replace the brake on this side while I've got everything apart, right? So, where do I buy replacements for these bearings, seals, and brakes? How expensive is this going to be? How hard is this going to be?
- Thread starter ADLM
- Start date
Janicholson
Well-known Member
The Bull gears must be removed from the axles in
the rear final drive case. Blocking them up with
dowels of bolts keeps them from falling and being
hard to realign.
Taking the top cover off might be easiest,
Working through the PTO hole might be too tight on
a C.
Once that is off, the wheels and tires are off,
the axle housing and axle can be removed to get at
the bearings. All parts are heavy, use great
stable wooden blocking to support your work. use a
cherry picker to lift components. The axle may be
worn and need to be replaced. The bearings are
available by part number from Motion Industries or
other bearing store, Napa may also have them.
Some seals may need to be purchased from the
dealer, But cross reference the numbers first to
Chicago Rawhide, or National. Jim
the rear final drive case. Blocking them up with
dowels of bolts keeps them from falling and being
hard to realign.
Taking the top cover off might be easiest,
Working through the PTO hole might be too tight on
a C.
Once that is off, the wheels and tires are off,
the axle housing and axle can be removed to get at
the bearings. All parts are heavy, use great
stable wooden blocking to support your work. use a
cherry picker to lift components. The axle may be
worn and need to be replaced. The bearings are
available by part number from Motion Industries or
other bearing store, Napa may also have them.
Some seals may need to be purchased from the
dealer, But cross reference the numbers first to
Chicago Rawhide, or National. Jim
gene bender
Well-known Member
Never mind the other post he is sure not talking about an A Farmall.After getting the tractor blocked under the tranny you will be able to get it apart easy. Seals can be purchased at any auto parts store just take the old ones along and also have the measurements of the OD and ID Same with the bearings have the original part so they can get the numbers. Using brake cleaner can clean up the brake linning so you mite not need a new one. You will need to remove the brake drum so the diff shaft will come out thru the outside of the final drive. Ive replaced lots of seals in that area but i do reline my own brake bands. A Cherry picker is sure handy for removing the final drive.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
You are correct. I sometimes forget what I do not know, and think Super C when it has no common reality with the question. My mistake. Jim
Just to add my 2 cents to what's already been said...
If you're going to replace one brake, you probaly should replace both.
Things can get a little dangerous if one side slips and the other catches solidly! Especially zipping downhill in 4th gear.
Not that these things actually "zip" in 4th....
Point is, you're going to have it blocked up anyways, and have all the right tools out...
Might want to also consider buying 2 of any parts/seals you need for the same reason.
If you're going to replace one brake, you probaly should replace both.
Things can get a little dangerous if one side slips and the other catches solidly! Especially zipping downhill in 4th gear.
Not that these things actually "zip" in 4th....
Point is, you're going to have it blocked up anyways, and have all the right tools out...
Might want to also consider buying 2 of any parts/seals you need for the same reason.
Thanks everyone for your input.
Gene, how do you go about relining the brake bands? Will replacing the seals require me to remove the pan off the bottom of the final drives, and if so will the auto parts stores have replacements for those gaskets as well?
JRSutton, I think i like your reasoning there. If Im going to go to the trouble of blocking up the rear of this thing once, I dont really want to come back and do it again for a very long time!
Anyone, is there a gasket between the transmission and final drive (or diff shaft housing on the rights side)?
Gene, how do you go about relining the brake bands? Will replacing the seals require me to remove the pan off the bottom of the final drives, and if so will the auto parts stores have replacements for those gaskets as well?
JRSutton, I think i like your reasoning there. If Im going to go to the trouble of blocking up the rear of this thing once, I dont really want to come back and do it again for a very long time!
Anyone, is there a gasket between the transmission and final drive (or diff shaft housing on the rights side)?
gene bender
Well-known Member
I get the lining and rivets from an old old brake place that has been around forever he knows just what lining will do the job the rest is easy holes are easy to drill and fasten one at a time then go to the nest hole. The pan gaskets i make from the material i have and they dont need to be removed to replace the seals. I have several rolls of material to make new ones. Its faster and easier than making trip to town to get new ones as i can make a new gasket quicker than just driving to the dealer.
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