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Super C engine block numbers

R

Rick Remmert

Member
Since pulling season is about over, have been getting ready to put new pistons in the 53' Super C. When I was changing oil the other day, I noticed castng numbers on the right side of the block. I can not find them in any of the parts books. I wonder if you guys wanted to take a shoot at it. #354898-R2. Beside that is what I assume is a casting date code, 10-23. Other than the firing order, there are no other numbers that I can see. Thanks for your time.
 
I have looked at block after block to find out their differences. I'm not an expert by any means, but I'm going to take a guess.

Your Super C is a 123 ci block that came from the factory with a water pump, and that [u:d273155b42]may be[/u:d273155b42] why you have that casting number. I have a hunch that it had the R2 because it came in a Super C or because it had a water pump, but I could and may very well be wrong.

My original block was a 251069 r1, it was cracked.

The next block I tried was a 354898 R1, it too was cracked.

The third block I used was a 366204 R1 and she is flawless. I'll try to get a pic up.

Any block used in a Super A, Super C, 100, 130, 200, and 230 are 100% compatible to your setup. When They got into the 140's and 240's the blocks changed.
 
That should be the block for the Super C and some of the Super A's may have used that same block. Your sleeves should be 7&-1/32" in length and the outside diameter of the sleeve should measure 3-7/16 at the seal." You can install an overbore kit W/ new sleeves and pistons to 3.250" to give you 133 cid. Hal
 
El Toro is correct. That block first appeared with sleeves that give 123 cu in the Super C. It later appeared on the Super A1. Before the Super A1 was released it was used in the Super A with thicker sleeves to maintain the SA 113 cu in displacement. As El Toro says the rebuild kits give 133 cu in. You don't need to be concerned about the R1, R2, etc suffix.
 
To be sure just pull one sleeve to get the measurements. I was quoted 55ea for the 3 1/4 sleeve and piston with rings and wrist pin hi-dome. That would give you 135 cu in.
 
Thanks for all your help. I am tired of getting beat by the orange "AC". I think he likes to just play with me! It is time to step it up a notch over the winter. Maybe I can go out next year and force him to show his full hand if you know what I mean.
 
Grape Drank, the block #'s starting with 35 were used on SC and 200. The 230 started with 36. Its not the same as you can't put the use the 3 1/4 kit in the 230. I know because I was told buy a tractor puller and checked with a local IH dealer. The block is smaller at the bottom on the 230 for some reason. To use the 3 1/4 kit you have to bore the block and fill and bore the bottom for the o'ring on the 230 block.
 
Grape Drank, the block #'s starting with 35 were used on SC and 200. The 230 started with 36. Its not the same as you can't use the 3 1/4 kit in the 230. I know because I was told buy a tractor puller and checked with a local IH dealer. The block is smaller at the bottom on the 230 for some reason. To use the 3 1/4 kit you have to bore the block and fill and bore the bottom for the o'ring on the 230 block.
 
When I looked in the #1 hole with a mirror and light, it looks like they are flat top pistons. There is so much carbon from running the junk Carter carb that I can not be for sure. I do not know about the head as I will just wait to see what I have when I pull it. I put a new Zeith carb on it and have not look inside since.
 
(quoted from post at 21:58:04 10/02/11) Grape Drank, the block #'s starting with 35 were used on SC and 200. The 230 started with 36. Its not the same as you can't use the 3 1/4 kit in the 230. I know because I was told buy a tractor puller and checked with a local IH dealer. The block is smaller at the bottom on the 230 for some reason. To use the 3 1/4 kit you have to bore the block and fill and bore the bottom for the o'ring on the 230 block.
Click to expand...

The #'s starting with 35 were also used with Super A, I meant that the blocks would work with mating to the transmission and accessories , but I do know the differences in the sleeves.
 
(quoted from post at 15:51:46 10/03/11) When I looked in the #1 hole with a mirror and light, it looks like they are flat top pistons. There is so much carbon from running the junk Carter carb that I can not be for sure. I do not know about the head as I will just wait to see what I have when I pull it. I put a new Zeith carb on it and have not look inside since.
Click to expand...

I took advice from this forum and got domed pistons for my rebuild. I also found some info on getting an adapter to use hotter 14mm plugs. Just food for thought if you want to beat the Allis next year.
 
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