Brake job on SM

lblock · Oct 2, 2011

Getting ready to tear into the brakes on the 52 Super M.I was just gonna put new discs in but now leaning toward redoing everything.Anything I should be looking for ?

Thanks Guys
Larry O

mike1972chev · Oct 2, 2011

DEFINITLY,

"Janicolson",helpe me tons!!! (Just did mine)

Check the balls in the expanders,clean the grooves they ride in,If balls are rusty,replace them.(cheap)lightly grease them,LIGHTLY!!!!

Sand surfaces of expanders where pads ride against them with 200 grit,side to side,NOT in circular motion (direction the disc travel.)If expanders are grooved,worn BADLY,replace them.If they are lighly scoured,they can be surfaced.replace all expander springs,if using the old expanders!!!Make sure all surfaces the disc ride against are true in the brake covers and expanders.
Replace any worn hardware/linkage inside.All is available. I would sandblast the brake hats/covers and primer inside witha good primer/acid etch primer is good.MOSTURE is the enemy here !!!

Replace pinion shaft seals while it is apart! They come apart fairly simple.

Scuff up the new brake disc a little with some course sandpaper SIDE TO SIDE,(not curcular)It will stop %200 better than it ever did!

GordoSD · Oct 2, 2011

Due to 60 years of wear the inner surface of the "drum" and the surface on the tractor where the disc hits havw worn quite a bit. You can't get enough expansion even with new discs to fill up this wear. You have to planeoff about .090 off the drums. Any shop that planes heads can do it for you.

lblock · Oct 2, 2011

Leaving to go pull em off in a min ,I will get some pics of what the inside looks like .

Thank you Mike
Larry O

Janicholson · Oct 2, 2011

Make sure that the distance from the inside surface
of the housing to the transmission friction plate
(total distance that the 2 disks and expander fit
into) is .040 to .060 larger than the stacked
height of the disks and expander when collapsed.
This leaves running clearance and keeps the geometry
of the linkages correct for max breaking, and good
release. Jim

john d · Oct 2, 2011

Good suggestions so far. Replace the rubber boots if they've been on there very long. When you're finished, spray some rattle can red paint over the outer surface to keep moisture from seeping in. Moisture is death to those brakes.

lblock · Oct 2, 2011

(quoted from post at 11:54:06 10/02/11) Good suggestions so far. Replace the rubber boots if they've been on there very long. When you're finished, spray some rattle can red paint over the outer surface to keep moisture from seeping in. Moisture is death to those brakes.

oots were gone where can I get them?

mike1972chev · Oct 2, 2011

Rubber boots can be EBAYED .Many people online sell them resonable.Dealers have them,but they are too high!

BTW,I forgot the part about what Janicholson said.When everything is cleaned up,put your new disc and expanders back in the covers and lay a straight edge across the the mounting surface of the cover.Measure the distance between the straightedge and the disc near it.(feeler gauge).If it exceeds what Janicholson put in his post,you will need to have that mounting surface milled to be within those specs!!! (BTW,when I installed the NEW balls in 1 of my OLD expanders and installed a brand new expander in the other side,I didnt have to mill my covers at all,but that may not be the case for you,you just have to check!

ALSO,if the linkage going to your expanders have their mounting hole elongated/egg shaped,it can cause some sloppyness.

Brake job on SM

lblock

Member

mike1972chev

Well-known Member

GordoSD

Well-known Member

lblock

Member

Janicholson

Well-known Member

john d

Well-known Member

lblock

Member

mike1972chev

Well-known Member

Similar threads