OK, I know it is not a Farmall but it is red! I am working on my 1966 Chevy C60 grain truck. It has sat in a machine shed for the last three years, but before I parked it I put plenty of stable in the gas. Two weeks ago I put in a new battery and 5 gallon of fresh gas and it started right up. I drove it back to my place roughly 8 miles and parked it. A few days ago I went to move it to the shop and it will not start. I have fuel to the carb and spark to the spark plugs. If I give it a little wiff of either it will run for a second. If I let it turn over it never wants to try, but I can smell gas out the exhaust. Tonight I pulled all the spark plugs and cleaned them up. They were wet with gas and had some carbon buildup but nothing out of the ordinary. Although I have spark at the plugs, I turned the key on and held the coil wire to a ground but did not get a spark. Do you think my coil suddenly went bad? What do you guys think I should try next. I have a set of new plugs, wires, points, condenser and coil coming tomorrow. Thanks for any advice on things to try.
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Janicholson
Well-known Member
To assess the coil the engine must turn (be cranking) and the coil wire must be held 1/4" from a ground. Assuming you did that, The cranking demand on the battery may be taking more than normal voltage drop, this starves the coil for enough voltage to run. Another issue is plugged up fuel filter. Assuming it has a Rochester carb of some type, there is a small tube in the intake at the choke that is cut off at an angle. The carb bowl can be filled by putting gasoline in this tube. (about 1/2 cup max) do that then give it a start. If it starts, the fuel pump or filter may be to blame. Jim
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
From my experience,anything i have let sit that long gets a film on the points and would not run until i cleaned them.Stabil in the gas is usually good for about one to one and a half years. If the old gas had any kind of an odor it should have been drained out. Todays gas has about a 90 day shelf life before it starts to deteriorate,so 3 years is really stretching it. Probably wont run because of the old points. hope this helps. Jim
CenTex Farmall
Well-known Member
What engine do you have?
You won't get a spark from the coil wire if the points happen to be open.
I kinda with jim on this one. Take the line loose at the carb and crank one or two revolutions and see if it's pumping fuel up to the carb. If that's true, then it's possible some stuff worked loose and plugged jetting inside the carb. Pull the carb apart and clean accordingly.
When you work the throttle by hand you should be able to see gas squirting in from the accelerator pump.
The gas today with ethanol just doesn't keep worth a flip. The ethanol pulls moisture out of the air and goes downhill quicker than pure gasoline.
You won't get a spark from the coil wire if the points happen to be open.
I kinda with jim on this one. Take the line loose at the carb and crank one or two revolutions and see if it's pumping fuel up to the carb. If that's true, then it's possible some stuff worked loose and plugged jetting inside the carb. Pull the carb apart and clean accordingly.
When you work the throttle by hand you should be able to see gas squirting in from the accelerator pump.
The gas today with ethanol just doesn't keep worth a flip. The ethanol pulls moisture out of the air and goes downhill quicker than pure gasoline.
RedRoundhead
Member
I agree with the point and/or low voltage scenario. I had a 400 with a loader stop mid lift. Same thing, tractor had sat for years, and then got it running. Ran well for an hour or so, then just died. Cleaned/adjusted points, and is still running today.
Good luck!
Good luck!
gene bender
Well-known Member
So where do you live that the gas only has a 90 day shelf life. I just started one. that has set since plowing last falls garden
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Too Far Gone
Member
After you turn it over a little,hop up there and look straight down the carb throat and open the carb manually with the linkage,You SHOULD see it spray some gas in there if its right.Otherwise a tune up will probably do it.Ive even seen plugs that were old that would have spark on the outside and not even fire under compression
Gene, ethanol gas blend start to turn at about 90 days. Key word being starts.
As far as the truck goes. If you don't have good spark it will not run well if at all so get the spark problem fixed first.
Then I would check to see if you have water in the gas. The ethanol will only absorb so much and with setting for 3 years you may have gotten enough condensation to cause some problems. You also have or are going to have some fuel filter issues. After setting that long I would bet that you are going to go through at least 3 or 4 filters in a short time. Depending on the year you may have one or 2 wires that feeds voltage to the coil. Some of the older Chevy trucks had a feed from the switch that passed a full 12 volts to the coil for starting and another that took over once the key was in the run position that had a resistor in line dropping it to 8 volts.
Rick
Rick
I'm going to use straight gas as long as I can buy it. I have tractors that sit for months without being run. Occasionally I add 2-5 gallons of gas to them, depending on how long I am going to run them, and they start. The "new" gas may have set all winter. Excluding ethanol, which is more expensive in KS than 87 octane regular, I think todays gas is BETTER than the older gas.
mike1972chev
Well-known Member
It seems kinda strange?Reading your statement,you really could not have fire at the plugs and NOT at the coil.
If you dont have fire at the coil,but DID have at the plugs at one time where you checked it.Then something has JUST quit on you!
Start with the points.If dirty,I have seen them work fo a few and then quit because of corrosion issues.While you have the distributor cap off,chech terminals in there for corosion as well.They are bad about it !Then check coil and voltage going to it.
If you have fuel soaked plugs and gas in the exaust like you are saying,then I really dont think you have a fuel problem at tis time.Most likely ignition.
If you dont have fire at the coil,but DID have at the plugs at one time where you checked it.Then something has JUST quit on you!
Start with the points.If dirty,I have seen them work fo a few and then quit because of corrosion issues.While you have the distributor cap off,chech terminals in there for corosion as well.They are bad about it !Then check coil and voltage going to it.
If you have fuel soaked plugs and gas in the exaust like you are saying,then I really dont think you have a fuel problem at tis time.Most likely ignition.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
If memory serves right the point gap and plug gap is 0.025 or at least that is what I have always used on my Chev 250s back when I still had one with point that is
mike1972chev
Well-known Member
Your plug gap needs to stay at .035 to .040 max!!!(I would stay with the .035)Being a "low energy" ignition.IF you had a newer HEI distributor,you would need .045 to .060
The points gap is .019 with new points and .016 with "used " points.(By what the MOTOR manuals have always said.) If you were going to be real "serious",you would set the points with a dwell meter.(THAT is the best way.)You do not really need to do this.
The points gap is .019 with new points and .016 with "used " points.(By what the MOTOR manuals have always said.) If you were going to be real "serious",you would set the points with a dwell meter.(THAT is the best way.)You do not really need to do this.
CenTex Farmall
Well-known Member
Correct! .035 for the plugs, .019 for new points and .016 for used. As Mike1972 said, technically correct way is to set dwell... 28 to 32 degrees. You will be close enough by setting the gap.
Big blocks are cool.
Big blocks are cool.
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