Speedi sleeve

I"ve been looking at speedi sleeves in case my A needs one on the front crankshaft seal. After looking at the pics I"ve got to wonder: how the hell does this thing work? I see a sleeve and something that looks like a cup I assume is the installation tool. Is there something missing in the picture? Do you put the new seal in the timing cover, install it and then drive the sleeve over top of the crankshaft until it "mates" to the seal? Anyone ever use one of these? I assume in the advertisement pictures, they are not showing the actual seal itself. Just the sleeve and install tool. I did contact SKF and they gave me the sleeve and seal part numbers.

The speedi sleeve is used in conjunction with a new seal also, they used to sell them as a matched pair, the seal & the sleeve, but now they are seperate. You will need one sleeve, one installation tool, & one seal.
We have used them for years on the yokes of semi truck drive lines.

The sleeve goes on the front pulley, not the crankshaft as the seal runs on the back hub of the pulley. You use the installation tool (The cup) to press the sleeve on. Best to put the pulley in the freezer for a few hours first to shrink it. Use plenty of lube when you press it on. The last one of these I did was on a cub. I ordered the new seal from Carter & Gruenwald (IH) and the sleeve was included with the new seal. I was all set to order the speedy sleeve elsewhere until I found out about the package deal from IH.

Thank you, Haas. You are the first person who has agreed with my interpretation of how this should work. Any other engine I have ever worked on it's the pulley that goes into the seal. Which brings me to my next dilemma. Out of my thousands of dollars in tools, I do not have a bearing separator, or a good 2 jaw puller, or a slide hammer. So I'm thinking when I tear it down, if it is in fact a worn spot on the pulley, I may just carefully cut the pulley off with a cut-off tool. By the time I buy the speedi sleeve and tools to remove it, it will be cheaper to just replace the $70.00 pulley. What do you think?

the speedi sleeve is just a very thin cylinder, with a lip around one end. It just goes over a worn shaft, giving you a new layer of material over the worn area.

You use the installation cup to push the sleeve onto the shaft (or aparently the pulley in your case), pushing against the sleeve's lip.

Depending on your application, if the lip is in the way once the sleeve is installed, the lip can be peeled cleanly off by making one snip across it, and sort of rolling it up with a pair of needle nose pliers.

The freezer idea is a good one, to shrink the part your putting the sleeve on. You may also heat the sleeve, expanding it.

A side note that doesn't really apply in your case; on smaller sleeves you can use metal epoxy under the sleeve to be sure it doesn't spin - but if you do the freezing thing, and it's a hot muggy day -you'll end with a frosty mess of frozen condensation and frozen epoxy! It gets ugly fast.

Here's a picture of one from my manual. They provide a new smooth surface for new seal to ride on. Hal

The seal/sleeve P/N is 378193R91. The problem is that some suppliers are selling just the seal under this part number. When ordering, check with the seller to make sure you are getting both the seal and sleeve.

You're going to cut the pulley off the crankshaft to save buying the proper tool? Hmmm. Good luck. Crankshafts aren't cheap. But perhaps you're more careful than I.

I have no idea what your pulley looks like, but my 240U pulley wasn't hard to remove with a harmonic balancer puller. But maybe your pulley doesn't have threaded holes. Can't do much without a few pullers and separators. Do a search on pulley and you'll see a rig a fellow over at FarmallCub cobbled together with a hydraulic jack.

Yes, the sleeves goes onto the pulley, and you buy a matched set of sleeve and seal so the OD and ID match. IH sells them. A thin layer of RTV on the ID of the sleeve, and you can tap it onto the pulley shoulder with a block of wood and a hammer. The IH sleeves don't have the flange the Speedi-Sleeves do, but no matter, goes on easy.

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You don't need a bearing separator or any other expensive tool to get the pulley off. I made a puller myself out of some 3/4 inch thick steel, some 5/8 inch all thread rod and some 5/8 inch nuts. 1/2 inch thick steel would probably be heavy enough. I made a u shaped cut in the steel and then drilled and tapped two holes for the all thread. That part goes behind the pulley. Make sure it does not bear on the pulley edges, but on the center hub of the pulley. I rounded the sharp corners on mine. For the other part, I used some heavy square tubing and drilled three holes, two to match the holes in the back piece and one in the center for the pusher rod. You can use a bolt or a piece of all thread. Then I put the puller on there and nut behind the puller bar with the bolt bearing against the center of the crankshaft, turned the nut with a wrench and the pulley came right off. There should be a tapped hole in the end of the crankshaft make sure you don't damage that. You can use that tapped hole with a piece of all thread and some washers to pull the pulley back on. My pulley came right off with this and no hydraulics required and not much invested since I used scrap pieces I already had. I'd say it took less than an hour to make the whole thing.