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Clutch acting strange...Help

G

Goodman

Member
Man things are getting close to finally finishing Super A restoration. Actually drove her around yesterday, first time it has moved under it's own power in 15 years.

I installed a new clutch, plate, etc but am having trouble with it releasing. I can start it in gear, clutch depressed, and the tractor never moves, the clutch is adjusted pretty well, have the right free play,etc. But once moving if I just push in the clutch I'm getting "some" forward movement from the engine. Without the brakes it will take it 15-20' to wind down. With clutch in, tractor running, if I take it out of gear there is no chance of putting it back without shutting it off. Within 2 seconds of taking out of gear you hear the transmission shaft pick up speed.
The only thing that touches that shaft is the point where it goes in the pilot bearing in the crankcase. Can there be enough friction there to cause this?
I can't figure this one out???????
 
Clutch disc bent or otherwise defective, pressure plate defective/fingers not adjusted evenly. POSSIBLY clutch disc installed flipped front to back.
 
Did you have the clutch that came out of it rebuilt???

I have seen them remanufactured with the release fingers uneven on the pressure plate.Also,like previous post,disc warped,or even clutch linkage worn/out of adjustment enough as to not FULLY release clutch.(Disc is still slightly dragging when pedal is fully down)You NEVER will get it to go in gear if that disc is even catching a little !!!!
 
No, I didn't have it rebuilt but I'm sure it is a reman.
Put all new clutch disk, and pressure plate, throw-out bearing, etc.
I have adjusted linkage both ways. Right now it is catching right at the top, that should give me the most clearance when depressed fully, but still won't clear. That tells me it isn't the linkage.

The fingers sounds like a possible option, Can I check them in some way and adjust them on the tractor from the access hole?
 
I feel fairly certain it is not flipped. It has been several months but I remember deciding there was only one way it would go logically and clear the flywheel.
Hope I'm right on that one.
 
I do not know how much you can actuall check for with it installed already???(Could be a tough one???)

When I did my Ford 600,I was Pretty serious about it.(did not want to break apart tractor twice!)They rebuilt my pressure plate the first time and the release fingers WERE NOT even,so I made them get new fingers for my p,plate.Checked disc and p plate face for flatness.Bad parts are sold everyday!!! I hate doing things twice !!!!
 
You are correct (if you looked at it at all, the wrong way hits the bolts.)
On assembly it is possible to get the engine off enough to bend the hub of the clutch. If it is bent, the disk drags. Fixing requires it to be removed and straightened so it has less than .005" runout.
If the splines on the Clutch shaft are worn, or the disk hub to shaft fit is tight, it will drag.
Adjustment will not help either. If the fingers are withing .005" in height when the clutch pedal is released, they are OK. Best of luck, Jim
 
I was half asleep when I installed my Super A clutch this spring, disk was in backwards. Oddly enough it would engage and disengage, but made one heck of a grinding noise when engaging. Cost me the price of a new clutch. Does not sound like his is in backwards as it would be obvious.
 
If the shaft increases speed with the clutch pedal in is likely dragging in the pilot bearing bushing. With it in gear and the tractor stopped it is unable turn the shaft and engaged gears with the clutch in. But this could account for some of the trouble stopping. If that is the cause, you have to split and replace the bushing-CaseIH still has them, you need a puller to get the old one out, or you can carefully cut it out. I have replaced two, pulled out the first in about 10 seconds, the second had to be cut out. Grease the bushing liberally. Also examine the shaft and file off any rough places. You can rent/buy a puller at O'Reilly's.
 
Check the release fingers. I had a similar problem with my Farmall 504 sometime back and found one of the stud/nut that adjust the release fingers had loosened. Interesting to repair through the access cover, but I did.

It started out like your problem, then I had to idle down to shift, then it did not want to stop when clutched, then it got to where the clutch did not really matter anymore. One dragging release finger.

Good luck.

CT
 
What do you mean by the hub of the clutch being bent? Do you mean the clutch surface is not 90 degrees to the spline.

Also, on the height of the fingers, they all appear to be about the same tolerance off the throw-out bearing although I have not measured them. All have about the same freeplay with the clutch out.
 
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