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Roosa-Master Solenoid

W

Wardner

Well-known Member
When my 660D is cold, I have to rap the aluminum solenoid cover in order to get the solenoid to click on. It's mostly OK when the motor is hot.

Is this a voltage problem, tired solenoid, or internal linkage issue? Do solenoids fail slowly?
 
Gummy and sometimes galled from metal to metal on the inside where the plunger travels. Dry film Tri Flo, or PTFE basedspray can be helpful if you can get at it. Jim
 
Jim,

The solenoid is submerged in Diesel fuel and built into and inside the injection pump. Easy to get to though. Four small cap screws to separate the cast aluminum cover.
 
Well the fit of the plunger in the bore is the only factor. What about a very thin Teflon sheet wraped around the plunger? Just thinking. Jim
 
Hey Pard,

Just replace that solenoid; kind of a common problem and they act just like a "iffy" starter solenoid. Any parts house ought to have 'em.

Goes unsaid that you make darned sure to get the thing installed correctly so as not to have a runaway.

I always try to get a pair of pliers or vice-grips at the ready on a fuel line to shut 'er off if the install goes haywire. :>)

Allan

4lhtlz.jpg
 
I'll bet you find the solenoid bristling with whiskers of metal filings. If there's a LOT it's likely a sign your IP is beating itself to death and in need of attention.
 
Had one with those symptoms, wire broke were it was soldered to coil. Didn't even need any solder to fix, just touched the iron to the joint, after cleaning everything up, the solder ran up the wire a short way. I had a new ESO in case that solder joint broke, but I've been waiting ten years to put it on.
 
Ya, Fritz

I been thinking it might be a voltage problem too. Easy to check. I will run a wire from the battery to the terminal on the pump. If it clicks on and off, I will know where to start. If it doesn't, I will remove the aluminum cover and have a look.
 
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