IH 2250 Mount-O-Matic Loader....HOW DO I REMOVE & REINST

RTR

Well-known Member
I have recently purchased this tractor with the mounted loader on it. I would like to tear the tractor down to service it, and sandblast & re-paint it. First of all, I thought that by removing the front loader would be better than trying to paint it with it mounted on the tractor.

Would anyone happen to know how to remove it from the tractor? Is it a hard job? I have located (I think?) the 2 pins and the 2 quick connect hydraulic hoses that hold it on; BUT I would like to make sure before I mess something up. ALSO, I would like to know the correct process for removing and re-installing it that way it is an easy thing to do, and not a Pain-in-the-Rear. I am sure there is a "trick" to it.

I really look forward to the replies.

Thanks!!!!
 

Here's a picture of the tractor & loader....

2859.jpg
 
Here is page from brochure showing mounting /dismounting loader. Looks simple enough, but it looks to me that you may have to chain the bucket to a post or tree to get it to start to slide off the front support as you begin to back out from the loader. Good luck.
a48321.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 06:30:41 09/01/11) Here is page from brochure showing mounting /dismounting loader. Looks simple enough, but it looks to me that you may have to chain the bucket to a post or tree to get it to start to slide off the front support as you begin to back out from the loader. Good luck.
a48321.jpg



It seems that way to me too. Someone who has done this before please speak up! with your tips and tricks
 
I have a 766 with a 2350 loader, and no you don't have to chain it to a trewe to remove the loader.Level ground makes removing and installing the loader easier.That 684 and 2250 loader will look awesome all painted pretty. Can't wait to see pics of the finished tractor. Kent
a48322.jpg
 

I would like to see more luvures of your tractor and loader if possible. Thanks!
 
Hi RTR, do just like the instructions and picures
show. Some hints:
1)Make sure you choose a level ground to park the
loader and it works better with the bucket on
rather than the round bale spear.
2)Pull pins and backup far enough that the loader
comes out of the U where the pins were, then start
using the hydraulic controls to lift the loader
frame so the frame that slides on the front pins
is sloped downward, then backup slowly while
raising the loader frame and keeping the bucket
flat on the ground and WATCHING that the hydraulic
hoses don't become snagged. Continue backing up
and adjusting hydraulics until loader frame
touches the ground in an almost vertical position

3) Mark hydraulic hoses before disconnecting.

Hope this helps
JimB
 

Thank you Jim. Any tips on hooking it back up. To me, it seems tricky almost like it would try to slide forward as you were trying to re-mount it.
 
Hi RTR, another tip I forgot was when you go to
disconnect the hydraulic hoses, shut the 684 off
and just work both loader controls and the
pressure will be released and the quick couplers
will disconnect easily.
To re-install:
1)Very important to drive tractor squarely into
loader(position tractor in same place as it was
when loader was removed) until loader frame
contacts front mount guides. Shut tractor off do
hydraulic trick to release pressure and connect
the marked hoses from the loader.
2)Start tractor use bucket hydraulic control to
angle front of bucket into the ground, move
tractor slowly forward while working hydraulic
controls to level out loader frame and keep bucket
angled into the ground and WATCH the hydraulic
hoses don't get snagged. Continue until loader
frame is back in the U so the pins can be
installed. Re position hydraulic hoses to prevent
rubbing and chaffing against loader or tractor.

My brother took some old car heater hose and split
it and installed it over the loader hydraulic
hoses where they were rubbing on the loader frame.

Good luck
JimB
 
(quoted from post at 17:06:46 09/01/11) Looks like a nice A & cultivator back in the shed.

Thanks Brownie, yes it is a 1950 Super A. One of the many that we have.

Thank you Jim, and the others for the help and tips on the loader. I will have to try it this weekend. I can't wait to try.

I have a question about the bucket control stick. Is there supposed to be a lot of "slop" in the joystick? I feel like there should be some because of the design, but this one requires you to forcefully push it to the right to get the bucket to dump. Just wondering, and if so; how can it be fixed??
 
TTT. Just looking for some info to the last question. Gonna go out and try it tomorrow after I get the bucket mounted!!
 
I took the loader off the tractor today, and boy was it as easy as it looked!! I ended up taking off the bale spear, installing the bucket, and took the loader off. Thank you all so much for the help & tips on that!! I couldn't have done it without you guys, and I will be keeping you all updated on the "refurbish" (painting, etc.). I still think I should take a look at that loader hyd. control lever because it is a little too sloppy for my liking. I will probably be posting soon about that or something else. THANKS AGAIN!!!
 
Hey, they told you it was that easy and you were skeptical... Glad it went well for you.

The slop... Well, you're going to have to take it apart and see where the slop is. Maybe it's a pin that you can replace with the next size bigger? Maybe you'll have to drill out and install bushings? Maybe you'll have to weld up and grind down existing pivot points?

The joystick is NOT standard. These loaders typically used the tractor's built-in remote valves to operate. I have NEVER seen a loader of this vintage that wasn't set up to use the tractor remotes.
 
(quoted from post at 10:49:59 09/04/11) Hey, they told you it was that easy and you were skeptical... Glad it went well for you.

The slop... Well, you're going to have to take it apart and see where the slop is. Maybe it's a pin that you can replace with the next size bigger? Maybe you'll have to drill out and install bushings? Maybe you'll have to weld up and grind down existing pivot points?

The joystick is NOT standard. These loaders typically used the tractor's built-in remote valves to operate. I have NEVER seen a loader of this vintage that wasn't set up to use the tractor remotes.

So...Matt, are you saying that my setup isn't common? It looks like it is a factory setup all the way. I also know that with a 4-way control there is always a little slop, but I think mine is too much since you nearly have to "lay it over to the right" to get the bucket to dump. Let me get some pictures of the setup, so I will be a little more clear.
 

I have NEVER seen an IH loader of that era set up to run off the remotes!

Funny how things are in different areas.

All have had either a 2 lever valve or joystick mounted on them, 1850/2200/2250/2255.

I think it had to do with the fact that double remotes weren't real common, tractors either had 1 remote or none, so loader valve was required.
 
I will be posting a picture tomorrow to clear up what is on the tractor.
 
Coming to this thread over a year late, looks like... typical for me. My Dad had a 656 that he bought new in 65 or 66. He added a 2250 loader and replaced the original tricycle front end with a wide front end from an 806 and ran it for over 30 years before wearing it almost completely out and trading it away on a JD POS. It was set up to run off the remotes on the 656, but oddly enough, when I bought my used 684 in the 90s he dug around in the shed and came up with a set of brackets and a factory joystick for the 84 series that he had gotten with the original loader purchase and just stored away. Sadly for me, when he traded the 656, the loader went with it, so I have the brackets and joystick but no loader. Since we've taken up with horses and I now have a need to feed round bales, I'm hunting a loader to go with the brackets and joystick, hopefully I'll locate one and get to put the stuff I have to good use.
 
(quoted from post at 22:49:59 09/03/11) Hey, they told you it was that easy and you were skeptical... Glad it went well for you.

The slop... Well, you're going to have to take it apart and see where the slop is. Maybe it's a pin that you can replace with the next size bigger? Maybe you'll have to drill out and install bushings? Maybe you'll have to weld up and grind down existing pivot points?

[b:793bbc7c1f]The joystick is NOT standard.[/b:793bbc7c1f] These loaders typically used the tractor's built-in remote valves to operate. I have NEVER seen a loader of this vintage that wasn't set up to use the tractor remotes.

Matt, Back in the day every one of those units we sold had the power beyond and single lever joystick option installed.
 
What exactly does the PowerBeyond kit consist of? I've been told that I'd need one to hook up a loader on my 684, but I'm not sure exactly what they're talking about or how much it costs to have one installed.
 
jkm2a, if your 684 has two hydraulic remotes on it already, you don't really need the power beyond to operate a loader.

The only reason you'd want the power beyond is if you also had rear implements that required hydraulic remotes, and you don't want to take the loader off before using them. However, that is the point of quick-attach loaders. You drop the loader so the tractor is easier to use for field work.

Maybe it's a regional thing, but the machinery dealers in my area in the 1970's and 1980's never-ever-ever sold a loader with power beyond and joystick. They probably charged for it, but never installed it.

I have yet to see, locally, an 60, 06, 56, 66, 84, or 86 series tractor with a power beyond and joystick.
 
Dad had the loader on his 656 running off the rear remotes, but my 684 unfortunately has only one set of remotes. I do have the brackets and joystick for the loader, but no loader. Weirdest thing, when I search the Internet for used 2250 loaders I keep coming up with ads that are 2 or 3 years old, and of course the loaders are no longer there. Can't seem to locate many current ads, and when I do find one its usually over 500 miles away. For the prices I'm seeing on used 2250s and for what I'm told the PowerBeyond kit will cost, I think I may be better off to just buy a tractor with a loader already on it and sell mine. I've already missed two local deals on tractors with loaders, one was a 684 and one was a 995.
 

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