Decal question

I'm restoring my '44 H to be a very nice show tractor. A friend is going to help me paint it when we're ready (after my next cruise, so next summer), but we're talking about supplies now so I can get an idea of cost, and start saving funds.

So... we weren't planning on clear coating, but I've read that clear coating over decals will look better and help them last longer. What kind of decals are there, and what are the best for a really good look?

Any tips?

The original are water applique self sticking decals. they have a glue that softens in water , and the decal is slipped off of the backing onto the paint (delicate and precision operation)
New ones can be self adheasive on mylar or other modern plastic. Peel off the back and place like a licence date tag.
Covering them with a quality clear coat is OK if the too good paint job is desired. I like them on the surface of a single coat paint job similar to period paint look and not a "wet look".
Make a test panel and try out the components and cover effects prior to the tractor. Jim

If you want your restoration to look original, clear coat definitely does not look original.

Harold H

Yes, I'm very aware that originally the tractors were just sprayed to get paint on them, then decals slapped on, and out the door they went. But this tractor is too special to me to not put a lot of painstaking work in making look as good as I can. For those that know me, I've been pursuing, and now restoring this tractor since... 2006ish. Now that I'm on sea duty and deploying a lot, my progress has been minimal.

Anyway, this is going to be a show-only tractor. Well, that and hay rides. I may enter it in an antique pull just to try it. But, its working days are over.

Mike, like others have posted, you can clear coat over top, but it will look "shiney". Most decals I have used indicate not to put anything over top of it, so not sure how the mylar vs. vinyl cut will react to the solvents in the enamel (clear coat).

I shouldn't post this, as 99% will roll their eyes. But for reasons that were valid at the time, I did a TS Varspar rattle-can repaint on a tractor. I also used mylar decals. I used that tractor this summer for shows. Got lots of compliments, and I hesitate to say, I like the patina of the slight paint "fade". in fact, I would venture that akyloid rattle can paint is probably closer to the factory paint than the high end epoxy or uerathane enamels used for auto body work.

So, in the end, it is your tractor, do as YOU want. You will never beat the durability of the auto quality paints and a clear coat. Only down side, it is SHINEY! I have seen some stunning tractors with the high quality paint jobs. Good to see you posting, and again, thanks for your service to our country!

(quoted from post at 18:16:03 08/26/11) I'm restoring my '44 H to be a very nice show tractor. A friend is going to help me paint it when we're ready (after my next cruise, so next summer), but we're talking about supplies now so I can get an idea of cost, and start saving funds.

So... we weren't planning on clear coating, but I've read that clear coating over decals will look better and help them last longer. What kind of decals are there, and what are the best for a really good look?

Any tips?

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Mike, won't your tractor be stored inside when you're not using it? My 1940 H was painted with IH 2150 from a rattle can, and mylar decals were applied. When I put it away for the winter, I wash it and then wax it, and after 13 or 14 years it still looks every bit as good as the day I finished it up.

Mike,
First off, thank you for your service. I'm more of a car guy than a tractor guy. I've done a LOT of painting over the many years of rebuilding auto wreaks and I have had the opportunity to use just about all the different kinds of paints that are out there. About 5 years ago one of my good friends wanted to paint his Cockshutt 20 tractor. He too wanted a show tractor finish in the original red. We talked about all the options. Here's what we came up with. All the enamels will fade unless it's kept out of the sun almost all the time but it only takes 2 coats to get a good job. Lacquer is just too much work (coat after coat after coat) and cast iron can't realistically be buffed as lacquer needs to be to get that beautiful shine. Some people like the epoxy paints but they will also fade in time and the epoxy looks like you put about 10 coats on when your finished. A look that I never liked much. But it is HIGHLY durable. We figured basecoat-clearcoat (also called 2 stage urethane) would look the best but it scratches VERY easily and takes at least 4 coats (2 base color and 2 or 3 coats of clear) to look great and it will not fade. Then there is single stage urethane. Two coats will do fine. It doesn't fade like all the enamels, it doesn't require buffing like lacquer, It doesn't look like you poured it on like epoxy and it doesn't require 4 or 5 coats like basecoat-clearcoat. The tractor came out looking better than new. He has won quite a few 1st place ribbons at tractor shows here in Vermont with it. It REALLY looks great with NO fading at all after 5 years of being outside all the time. As far as the decals go, the ones you buy today (at least the ones my buddy bought) are some kind of plastic not the old type decals you soak to install and they look great, are shiny and don't crack. I don't think you would need to clear over them to get the job you want. I hope this helps you Mike. I will be looking forward to pictures when you are done next summer!
Dave