Setting up Farmall 350 to plow?

Dean Olson

Well-known Member
I'm going to get my Farmall 350 row crop set up to handle a 2-16" fast hitch plow. I going to try to bust some sod in a pasture that hasn't ever been turned that we know of. I tried this on another pasture with my Super C and C20 plow. I got it done but is was ugly. The SC just isn't big enough.

Tires are 12.4X38" 8 ply with about 50% tread.

How much weight can or should I add to the rear? I can fill the tires and have 5 sets of the 1 piece 140lb. IH weights.

I have a set of frame weights that will also go on. Will I need more that that on the front?

I know the right rear tire has to be set in. Any insight on that configuration would save me some trial and error.

Currently the cast center is dished out and as close to the axle as it can get. Rim is on the inside bevel now.


Thanks in advance.
 
The tire should be right, if you put all that weight on it will be plenty. I would just put one weight on the back. You have a mounted plow with draft pulling down behind you. It sound's fun pull her open and go. ha.And the front weight you talked about on the tractor.
 
Hi Dean: I have been plowing some virgin sod each of the last 4 years.( It was used as pasture.) I also had a Farmall 350 rowcrop. Only difference is the plow. I first used an IH 2x14 trailing plow, since I had it. I just happened to have rear wheels set at 64 inch center to center. 12.4X38 Firestone Field & Road. Power was way more then needed to pull that little plow in fairly good black soil. The biggest problem I had was not using the right TYPE of plow Moldboard for heavy sod. In my case the root system was deeper the any I'd seen before. I ended up going about 9 inches deep. I was told to find a plow with a much more curved moldboard, which will Roll-Over that heavy dense sod. Found an older Case 2 bottom, built heavy and had all steel wheels, and a well CURVED Moldboards... Bingo... sucess..!! The right type plow made all the difference in the world. Could have used any color tractor, rowcrop or utility. I have pictures if needed.. Ugly results because of wrong type moldboard may be your problem too?? Good luck. ag
 
Great pics. Thanks.

My problem with the sod and the Super C was simply not enough traction, power, and experience on my part. I would come to a stop and raise the plow. Added weight, moved wheels till I got it mostly plowed. I made it work but it was ugly. Since then I turn it 2x's per year and it works great and looks pretty good. This is for about a half an acre of garden

The new project is about 5 acres that I'm going to turn over and get seeded for improved pasture and food plot. It's also pretty rough so I'll get a chance to smooth it out.

I'm thinking the 350 properly set up and the fact that I have a little more experience it'll go much smoother and look much better.
 
Dad had a 350 with 3-16 fast hitch plow. Just had fluid in the tires, and had no problems. he did not add any weight to the front, andit was pretty light with the plow, but we got along good with it. 2-16 should be no problem.
 
I think what agpilot is talking about is that high speed moldboards may not work as well in sod as standard moldboards. All the Fast-Hitch plows I have seen did have high speed, but it's possible some did not. Our Super C 2x14 plow had the extentions or "wings" on the end of the high speed moldboards which may help roll over the sod. The high speed moldboards are meant to be pulled at a higher speed so the speed helps roll the dirt over more. With a strong 350 and 2x16", you should be able to pull fast enough to do a decent job. Any bigger than that, you probably won't be able to pull fast enough to do more than set the sod on edge.
 
i would put on 3 sets of weights and see how much tire slippage you have. you want a little, but not so you are noticeably slipping, if that makes sense. you won't need to load the tires for a 2 bottom plow. the front frame wts are a good idea but probably not necessary.
as to speed, are there dead men in the field? if you hit one with the fh plow that has the big spring on the top, you will get real acquainted with the steering wheel, or worse, break the plow. something to consider, anyway.
try turning the crank on the fh lift arm to get the plow to tilt to the right as much as possible. it may help to get the sod to roll over.
 
Hi IH fan: Your right on high speed vs standard moldboards.. but I felt just saying more 'Curved' got right to the point. Ya gotta get sod rolled almost all the way over. My first try with an IH plow just set the sod 'on-edge' and I had lots of sod flop back into the furrow which made a mess. The second plow, an older heavy Case, rolled the sod much farther over, as can be seen in the 2ed picture taken looking back & down at the plow. With the Case plow I could go 'real slow' and still get the sod rolled almost all the way over... ag
 
I knew someone would throw that up.

I tried several resources, ie IH,Binder books,general web search etc.so far can't find the manual for a uf-20 plow. Any idea where to find the manual?

If it's unmanly then I'm a must be close to cross dresser status as I've spent thousand$ on manuals.
 
(quoted from post at 14:44:14 08/16/11) I knew someone would throw that up.

I tried several resources, ie IH,Binder books,general web search etc.so far can't find the manual for a uf-20 plow. Any idea where to find the manual?

If it's unmanly then I'm a must be close to cross dresser status as I've spent thousand$ on manuals.

All I can say for implement manuals is good thing is it steam show season again. That is about the only place to find a lot of these obscure manuals.
Nebraska Cowman has quite a few unique manuals. He had a manual for my Allis Chalmers 140S manure spreader.

2609.jpg
 
I always read those manuals, back on the day, so you're not alone. Most any old-timer like myself could show you how to set up a plow but it's kind of visual.

In words, you would start by putting the left rear tractor wheel up on a seven inch block, then drop the plow and crank away on the adjustments until the botom edges of the plow lays are flat on the ground. Then you would put both tractor wheels back on the ground and move the right rear tractor wheel in or out until both moldboards turn the same width of soil. Putting it another way, the lateral distance from the inside of the right rear tire to the front of the right lay is about the same as the lateral distance from the front of the front lay to the front of the next lay.
 

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