Governor Adjustments

I had an issue with low idle.... that's taken care of. Now I seem to have no control of the engine speed with my speed change lever. It stays at the low idle speed. I have read about the high idle change bolt or nut on the top of the governor but I have not noticed any change....any suggestions.

Also that high idle nut is a double nut, I have only moved the very top nut...maybe it's the lower one that changes things....idea's welcome.
 
There should be a bolt with a lock nut. The bolt on my C has a lot of threads left. I used it to get full range of the throttle lever. I think moving it out increases the RPM. Did you have full RPM before you started working on it, and did you have it before you got the idle correct? Is the rod from the governor to the carb adjusted correctly?
 
Likely, the governor spring is disconnected or broken.

The adjustment screw is cover by an acorn nut... you have to remove the acorn nut to access the adjusting screw beneath it, then loosen the locknut before turning the screw.
 
That one is to prevent surging, he said the adjustment on top, the surge adjustment is on the bottom, perhaps he did mean bottom.
 
(quoted from post at 09:04:44 08/14/11) That one is to prevent surging, he said the adjustment on top, the surge adjustment is on the bottom, perhaps he did mean bottom.

What I meant was the nut on top of the governor is a double nut....but after looking closly at the picture in the manual the top nut is the one that should get turned, the bottom nut is to lock it down basically. I tried this but nothing really happened.
 
Yep, I know the double nut setup/acorn nut is on the bottom, and I think there's a little mis-communication in terms, as the dingus on the top that he says is double-nutted is actually a screw with a locknut.

Livin, did you get back to it to find out what the "doesn't rev uip problem actually is?
 
If this is on an A,B,orC, with the engine off, put the hand throttle for fast. Then check the throttle rod to the carb. It should be a WOT and you can feel the spring when you bring it to idle. If you can't feel the spring it is broken. Pull the gov as it is inside.
 
(quoted from post at 11:13:46 08/14/11) If this is on an A,B,orC, with the engine off, put the hand throttle for fast. Then check the throttle rod to the carb. It should be a WOT and you can feel the spring when you bring it to idle. If you can't feel the spring it is broken. Pull the gov as it is inside.

Sorry again this is on a Super A

Not sure what WOT stands for, but before I touched any of this stuff my tractor would start with a very high rpm. I could play with the throttle rod and make it slow down.(there was tension from a spring in the governor arm) But it was like the spring pulled the throttle rod to rev up. [b:fc01c15338] I followed the instructions to put the throttle lever all the way forward and then disconnect the throttle rod and the carb....adjusted according to the manual and got it to idle nice.[/b:fc01c15338] I don't think the spring is broken....
 
Here's a question? If I want to take the governor off to examine. Can I just take it off.... the instructions mention taking off the mag....but it looks to me like the governor is bolted to the timing chain cover...

Thoughts are welcome...
 
A slot in the back of the governor shaft drives the mag, making it almost impossible to slide the governor back in (helical gears) so the slots match the tangs on the mag. In other words, the mag has to come off. First, find #1 TDC and note the the rotor is in the area (past) the #1 high-tension terminal.

If the tractor is in good time and you don't want to repeat the timing procedure, make an accurate match-mark between the mag and it's mounting area.

Also, locate the timing marks that match the governor gear to the timing gear BEFORE pulling the gears out of mesh. If you can't see any marks, scribe a couple of your own, so you can get the timing gear-to-governor timing back where it was (ASSUMING it's correct now).
 
You MAY be right that the spring is not broken, if you have the governor-to-carburetor linkage adjustment way off.
 
Did you have the carb off? It is posible to get the gov. linkig on the slow side of carb lenkig, just like the fast side, just a thought.
 
I had exactly the same problem with my 100 three weeks ago, and the culprit was the thrust bearing rollers in the governor were completely gone. This narrows up the distance that the weights can push the governor arm that goes to the throttle plate, thus wide open throttle. A new bearing from IH solved he problem.
 
(quoted from post at 18:26:32 08/14/11) Did you have the carb off? It is posible to get the gov. linkig on the slow side of carb lenkig, just like the fast side, just a thought.

I've had everything off....pulled this tractor out of the woods a little over a month ago. Not afraid to pull mag....I've had this in and out a bunch...timing is right on "now".

And yes I've had the carb off.....so tell me more about what I might have backwards.... you might be on to something...

Hopeful!
 

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