460 diesel new strange sound, HELP please

Hi guys, need some help. I have a 1958 Farmall IH 460 diesel (d236) that i have a strange new sound coming from. I Was combining wheat today and a new strange sound is coming from the air intake cap. Sounds weird I know but that"s where its coming from. Tried listening all around the motor but diesel"s have there own rattles and clangs that I can't tell if I"m hearing louder noise around the lifters or not. It doesn"t seem to have a power loss to speak of, although if I had to guess I would say the motor is laboring a little. I just can"t seem to put my finger on it. Also, if I had to describe the noise that is coming from the air inlet, its sort of a glirp, glirp glirp with a low pitch clunk or knock. Its not like a knock in the motor, the noise is coming out of the air inlet, the one where the cap with a screen on the underside of the cap that"s located between the fuel cap and the steering wheel. It is an oil bath air cleaning system and the oil level is correct. The noise just came as I was combining wheat, it is directly related to the speed of the diesel engine, it speeds up as I increase the idle. It is in time with the firing of each cylinder. Doesn"t get louder or quieter whether its idling or running at high idle. I hope someone can help. I have lots of wheat to bring in, and my Farmall IH 460 (d236) diesel is my only tractor. I don't know why but I feel like its a stuck lifter. Not sure why I feel that way but just do. Does anyone know what this is for sure and if it is a lifter or what ever it is, can it be fixed even temporarily so I can get my wheat in and then address the issue. I expect 5 more days of combining and I Should be done.
Thanks for any help
Tod Michigan

I had a similar prob with a 706 dsl and it turned out to be a bent pushrod causing a mis-fire on one cyl. oil in the water? perhaps a blown head gasket between cyls? Just some ideas without hearing it run.
dg

DG is just about right with the bent pushrod. Other--valve lash--chipped valve--piece of foreign material under the valve seating area--rocker arm getting ready to go South. If you pull the valve cover, you can see if trouble is in the upper end & easy to fix.

Well, unless it is a burnt or bent valve. Don't ask how I know. :>)

Allan

Glirp glirp glirp, sounds to me like air being sucked through the oil in the oil bath.

It's amazing how "in tune" we become with our tractors and vehicles. Our hearing and sense of touch become heightened. Suddenly we hear every little creak and squeak and clack and clunk and we feel every little vibration or shudder or lurch. Ask other people to listen/feel for the same thing, and they think you're NUTS!

This might just be a noise that was there all along, but you've become sensitized to it...

IMHO, just keep running it until something more definitive presents itself that will help you troubleshoot the problem.

Well these are all good ideas of what could be wrong. Sounds like everyone kindof agrees that its in the valve system area. Just to add more info to go on, this spring I broke the motor down and replaced the head gasket and up, including the side inspection cover for the push rods. When I reassembled the motor I have a good buddy That is a mechanic that was going to re lash the valves/rockers. When I got to that part of the process he was not available to come and do it for me and I had never done it before so we decided to leave it as is and maybe that was the WRONG thing to do. So, now I suppose I need to figure out better what it is.
Can I remove the inspection side cover and see if one of the rods are bent? Will it be an obvious bend or just slight bend? Any direction for how to figure out what it is for sure would be helpful.
Thanks again for all the help,
Tod Michigan.

If you try to rotate each push rod, you will be able to clearly see which one is bent, if any. I have had this exact thing happen on everything from a 350 LT1 motor to a 7.3L IDI, in both those cases a rocker arm had came out of adjustment and the valve was only being opened partly or not at all. With what you said about not properly adjusting the valves, this could very well be it. By the way, on both the vehicles I described above, they were factory original and had not been touched by the current owners, so sometimes things just work loose.

It always amazes me how good you guys are at guessing what the problem is by a few hints. In this case it must of been my good description of the noise I was hearing... glirp glirp?? Who uses that word besides a man who is desperate to fix his Tractor lol. Anyway, I tore the side inspection cover off the motor so I could see if I had a bent push rod and quickly determined that they were all fine. Then I pulled the valve cover and vwalla, there it was.. the forward most rocker section/assembly had failed. To explain it I'll explain in my terms, the whole rocker section....the rocker arm is on top of a tube that slides over and swivels on the main rail when it rocks back and forth to push the valve down/open and back again. The tube that slides over the mail rail is partially broken away and cannot push the valve down anymore. Very well could be due to us not lashing the valves when I put the head back on this spring, but I guess I'll never know.
So, does anyone know if I can buy just the one rocker assembly or do I have to buy the whole front half of the assembly? If I had to guess I would say I should be able to buy just the one rocker assembly and slide all the stuff off the main rail til I get the one off that I need and then put everything back on the way it goes. But if someone knows for sure one way or another, please let me know.
Last question. Does anyone know where I can get the part I need? I have a few places in mind but it wont hurt to know a few more. I'm gonna have to have it shipped to me anyway so if you have a place that you would recommend, please let me know.
Again I want to thank everyone who took the time to post a reply to my problem.
Thanks, Tod Michigan.

If you are talking about the shaft that everything rides on, they are high dollar from Case IH. Part number is 318020R11 and they are in the neighborhood of $200 a piece. I had an old 460 engine that had a wrist pin walk into the cylinder wall and ruin the block, I bought it for parts and would gladly send you one of those shafts, if I get back to where the engine is, but I have no idea when I will be there again, because it is a few hours away at my grandfather's old place and he has now passed, so I don't have many reasons to go there. I would say your best bet is to go to a salvage yard and look for one. Every now and again they pop up on ebay, but I don't currently see any. If you had bent a pushrod I have a few extra of those laying around out in the garage.

IH560, that's a very nice offer. Everyone on this site has always been very nice to me but this takes the cake. I want to thank you just for the offer to even part with your parts supply.
I looked on the Case IH web site and the part I need is referred to as an EXHAUST VALVE ARM LH - PART# 278303R21. It is the front most one and slides onto the shaft that you mentioned.
If you have the part I need and its in good shape, I would consider buying it from you, but I need to get my Tractor fixed as soon as I can. I only have the one Tractor and I have about 20 acres of wheat to bring in. I'm pretty confident I can find it much closer and if its a 2hr drive for you to get to your parts motor, I don't think it would be worth it for you.
If anyone has this part and wants to sell it, and can ship it out first thing Monday morning, please let me know and we'll try and work it out.
Thanks again, IH560
Tod.

I checked my buckets and parts boxes in the garage attic and the rocker arms must be back with the rest of the parts, the only reason I have the push rods here is because someone needed one of those a while back and I was able to get them on a trip up there to pick up a tractor. I checked and that rocker arm is only about $45 at your local case-IH dealer or online. I will look through some more stuff tomorrow and if I find that rocker arm I will get your address to send it your way.

I would have brought all those parts here, when me and my wife moved here 5 years ago, but she already complains I have too much stuff that I am keeping around.

I have been working on my 560 all day putting new seals in the TA and a new Pressure Plate and clutch for the TA. I have so many parts stuck everywhere, I had enough to do the whole job except one IPTO shaft seal.

This may not be the problem, but worth a mention. I've seen two 460 where this has happened. The hydraulic pump seems to stick and keeps pumping until it gets hot. (It's kind of a houl or whine) Back off the hydraulic levers a bit & see if there is a difference in sound. If it has Fast Hitch, throw the lift links over to the frame and lower the stub lift arms. The remote levers, wiggle at center position.

Wolfman, I am pretty confident that I have found what is making the noise on my Tractor. I strongly believe it is one of the rocker valve arm assemblies. The center portion of it that goes over the main shaft is cracked and parts of it are broken. Therefore it can no longer push the valve open, instead the rocker arm is allowed to move straight upward which will not allow the correct movement to do its job.
I read your post and as I am fairly familiar with the hydraulic system on my tractor I have never heard of the testing you suggested. An you describe again what issue you are testing for and how to test for it again? I like knowing all I can about my Tractor and didn't get what You meant by your post. If you have the time, I'd like to understand better.
Thanks, Tod.

Final update: I found the part I need and should have it by tomorrow midday. Thanks to everyone who took the time to offer there help. Again, the part that failed was a rocker arm, the center of it that slides over the shaft that it rocks on had failed and cracked allowing it to lift away from the valve rather than pushing the valve open.
Again, Thanks to everyone for there help.
Tod Michigan.

Tod, glad you found the problem. Diagnosis is often the tough part. I was saying that the hyd pump can just keep working sometimes if you don't back off the lever just a tad. For drawbar work, the fast hitch drawbar is usually switched over to the frame mounts (takes about a minute) instead of letting the lift arms stay connected. Wolfman.