IH 684 Fuel Filter Housing - NEED HELP

I just got an IH 684 that has the front end loader on it (deisel). It has been sitting for some time, and it turns over but wont start. Its not getting fuel, and I am going to replace the filters and go from there. I got the filter toward the rear on and mounted, but the toward the front of the tractor looks differet to me. Not the filter, but the housing where the filter attaches. The front filter housing looks like it has a thin tin plate with a lip attached where the other (rear filter housing) didn't. Is it supposed to be like that, or do you think that part of the old filter is still attached up in the housing?? I looked in the CASE/IH parts breakdown, but couldn't tell. Also, since its got the loader, its had to get to the housing and I'm going up from underneath with limited sight and space. Thanks for your help.

UPDATE

The peice in the housing was in fact part of the old filter. The reason I couldn't tell is because someone just replaced the fuel filters on it and it was leaking. The reason for the leak is because the old filter peice was still in there.

The tractor is leak free and it runs like NEW!! It is a strong tractor too. Now the only other issues are the brakes. IT DON"T HAVE ANY!! I just ran through my chain link fence! Haha, oh well. Gotta see if they have any fluid in them because it doesn't seem like they do.

Hi RTR, you will have to bleed the brakes. The
brakes are supplied by hydraulic fluid returned
from the hydraulic oil cooler in the front of the
rad.
Procedure to bleed brakes:
To bleed the brakes there is a bleeder screw on
top of each rear axle, looks like a grease zerk.
Require clean bucket and 1/4 or 5/16 inch clear
tubing that will fit over bleed screw nipple.
To bleed the brakes run the tractor until the
Hytran hydraulic fluid reaches operating
temperature.
Run engine at fast idle 1400-1600 RPM, block rear
wheels.
1)With tubing connected to nipple on bleed screw
and other end in clean bucket, loosen bleed screw
and let hydraulic fluid drain until air bubble
free, then close bleed screw. Repeat on other
brake. Do not pump brakes while bleeding.
Top up hydraulic fluid with fluid caught in
bucket, make sure transmission fluid level is full
or over full. Also check for leaks by bottom of
dash and along top of transmission cover. Brake
lines run from under battery box along top of
transmission to rear axles.
May have to repeat bleeding and if bleeding only
lasts a few days then repost and I will give a
procedure to diagnose if it is leaking seals in
brake piston.

JimB

Thank you so much Jim. I was actually about to post something about the brakes. It is a 1979 model and doesn't have the resivoir. I have an I&T Shop Manual that gives some help, but not very good.

Your procedure sounds great, and hopefully we'll get a chance to tackle it tomorrow. The left pedal doesn't ever build pressure, and the right one will build pressure but it releases the pressure once you let off of the pedal.

Are you saying to block the wheels so the tractor doesn't run over you, or block them off the ground. THANKS!

Here are some pictures.....We were spraying it down with oven cleaner getting it ready to steam clean.

Got them bled this morning, and they work fine now. Thank you JimB for the help!

Hi RTR, I guess you figured out to block the
wheels so the 684 does not run over you. Check for
oil leaks from under the dash and from under the
cover on the top of the transmission. This is
where the brake lines run. The other possibility
is the brake wheel cylinders are leaking.
Hopefully the parking brake still works. Be very
careful always to disengage the parking brake
before moving the tractor.

Nice looking tractor and loader. Did it have a T/A
and someone removed it or the plug for the hole to
the left of steering column was just lost?

My brother has 454,495,684 and 3230 with 2350
loader.

JimB

Thank you for the kind words Jim. I was wondering the same exact thing about the T/A because it looks as if the lever is missing (or the plug). How would I be able to tell? I know we had a 784 a few years ago that looked just like this tractor, and it had the T/A. I took it down the road today, and boy is it a good running and operating tractor. It sure is strong! I had it in 8th gear (4 H), and it ran fine, but I felt like something was holding it back a bit (kind of like the T/A would). I'm not sure though.

All it needs is a good cleaning, sandblasting the sheetmetal, and a good paint job with new lights & decals; and it'll be like a new tractor. I've already got a new seat for it.

Hi, the T/A control lever connected to another lever
on top of the transmission cover under the battery
box. Usually the Lo side goes out of T/A first and
farmers disconnect the T/A lever keeping it in
direct drive. My brother put a T/A elimination kit
in his 684 a few years ago.

JimB