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300u steering box again?

M

mike paulson

Member
hey guy's over the last couple years i have went into archives relentlesly on this site and other tractor sites, i have scowered the web for a solution to what i'm gonna do when my 300u steering box has to be replaced or rebuilt.
and i can only say I have found NOTHING!!
so once again i'm asking you fellas if there is something or someone new out there who rebuilds these boxes?
i do wanna add that i did find one, only one outfit that has 300u boxes rebuilt but he charges 1400 hundred bucks for them!!
i mean can the total failure of a steering box really be the end of the line for such a great tractor? a tractor which i can get almost any other part for???
 
it's just getting pretty sloppy, been adjusted already. i never opened it because it still functions, i just know one of these days it might need to be replaced and wanna be ready because im sure it will happen at the worst possible time.....
 
Can't really help you, but remember when I was a youngster, construction co in town building new school. Had a 300 and I became intimate with that steering box. Ended up putting on a new one which was much heavier built than old one. Have no idea which one you have but can say they are a definate problem area on that tractor.
 
Mike,
JimN and others have many posts on this subject that are in the archives.
I believe they mention the 460 box bolts on easily and is heavier.
I have two 300U, one with ps and one manual.
Start at the front tire and work back to the box taking out all slop possible. Then adjust the box by the book. Make sure nothing is loose or bent.
They say filling the box with combine head grease is a good idea.

Dell
 
Mike,
Click search and then click "search archives".
Click Farmall Forum.
Use keyword, " 300U Steering Box".
You will get many pages of hits.

Dell
 
hey Dellbertt, thats funny you mention using a 460 box because i have been pondering that maybe using a diff box and doing a retro would be the way to go, im a mechanic and have checked from front wheels back already and my looseness is for sure in the box, thanks for the keywords for an archieves search also....Mike
 
There are three critical elements to the box (this assumes all Ujoints and connections in the shaft and supports are good):
1]the ball bearing in the worm gear can and does get sloppy, then it breaks. It is the only thrust absorber in the worm and shaft. It is a common bearing and must be replaced with the identical (commonly found,and not too costly) deep groove bearing. It is directly under the heavy cap at the top front of the box.
The second is wear in the upper bolster bushing just below the sector gear. This bushing, if worn, allows the sector to move forward and back, as well as away from the worm. This slop allows excess backlash in the worm to sector spacing. The third is worn surfaces on the worm and sector. These are not reparable unless extreeme money is spent on a buildup and regrind. Good used gears are available for much less. The use of JD cornhead grease, or Mobil 1 synthetic chassis lube, will provide great high pressure lubrication, and not leak out (recommended). Jim
 
hey Jim, you ever hear of anyone using another box from another type of tractor, heck even a john deere or something, i'm pretty good welder and retrofitter, and i have red paint too, lol...thanks Mike
 
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