I recently bought an H that had a rattling coming
from the center section near the belly pump. I
took of the inspection cover and found that the
coupling between the shaft from the engine to the
transmission was loose. The took it apart to find
that the bolts are worn and the holes on the metal
coupling piece are elongated. The rubber bushings
also fell apart as I took it apart. I've been
searching online and cant find new parts for this.
My question is are these parts available new still
or will these parts have to be found used? Thanks!

I am not sure whether or not CIH still has them. I know I see them on ebay occasionally, and I know Burgh Implements has good used ones.

Hmm, I don't remember having rubber in mine when I took it apart. That can't be good. The rest just looked like two sizes of pipe. Maybe you could go to your local plumbing shop and sort through the scraps.

I don't know if these parts are still available from CaseIH or not any longer but they were several years ago when I bought some in 2005 or so. The rubber washers are p/n 6161H, the metal retainers are p/n 7579T qty. (8) each and the tapered bolts are 15393DAX with the nuts and washers qty. (4) and these bolts will be pricey. The part with the elongated holes is the clutch joint ring p/n 43769DA with a qty (1) needed. I'm assuming that the clutch shaft mating part is still usable. The clutch joint ring and shaft if needed and are not available from CaseIH you should be able to find some very good useable parts from a salvage H tractor. If you can't find the rubber washers and metal retained you might try Ron at Pilot Knob Restorations in Illinois at phone no. 815-777-0826 as he has a lot of those type of items. Good luck in your project, Hal.
P.S. The noted p/n's are from my Farmall H parts catalog with a Feb. 1960 print date and might have been replaced with new no's but your CaseIH dealership should know the new numbers. If you have problems locating these parts my email is open and I can give you a few more places to try to obtain them.

Matt go to a salvage yard that has tractors and you will be able to find all the parts you need. I needed one for my H and found a used one bolts and rubber washers and all.
Bob

ok, I was confused. There are 2 couplings in there. Was is the Farmall version of a universal joint, which is the input shaft into the tranny. Joe's farmalls should have those, and I would think CIH still sells the components.

The other is the coupler for the hyrdralic pump. There is no rubber on that one. my first answer was for this, but also applies to both.

Sorry, I started reading that it was in the belly pump area and thought he meant it was that thing.

Yes, all that clutch stuff is still available from CNH (and nowhere/not too many other places to my knowledge) I know just the bolts for my H were $120 a few years ago. The rubbers are in the high single digits, but they add up. I only replace the cracked rubber retainers in my tractors. I haven't looked into the main spider thing, but I would guess it is available as well. I haven't found a parts tractor that has any parts worth putting into my tractors.


Here is the spider thing in my H.

I just did mine on My Super M.It is all available.BUT the bolts were "out the roof" on pricing.

I welded the "worn spots" on the tapered bolts,Dressed them perfectly with a die grinder with a sanding wheel on it,and then re installed them with the orientation of the bolt 90 deg from where it originally rode against the couplers.(In other words,where the worn spot of the bolts WAS driving against the coupler,it NOW is riding against a NEVER USED part of that same bolt.Even though I repaired the gouging. Unless the bolts are almost worn in two,I would highly reccomend doing it this way.Those tapered bolts are expensive!!!!

Since the bolts were so much and the coupler itself was worn badly, I decided to purchase a used one that was in good shape. I got it online and paid 50 bucks for the bolts, grommets, main drive shaft, transmission coupler and the spider coupler between them. So basically the whole drive shaft assembly. Its in the mail and Ill let you guys know what happens when I'm done installing it. Hopefully itll get rid of the awful sound it was making....

(quoted from post at 15:27:29 07/27/11) Since the bolts were so much and the coupler itself was worn badly, I decided to purchase a used one that was in good shape. I got it online and paid 50 bucks for the bolts, grommets, main drive shaft, transmission coupler and the spider coupler between them. So basically the whole drive shaft assembly. Its in the mail and Ill let you guys know what happens when I'm done installing it. Hopefully itll get rid of the awful sound it was making....

Click to expand...

The rubber washers are probably the most important parts for noise reduction. You may need to shim them a little between the steel cup and the rubber washer to make sure they are tight. You can make shims from gasket material.

Just buy new rubbers. It may be $20, but it is worth it. If you can't bend yours in half without them cracking in half replace them.

I just did 2 of these, but on an F-12 and a Regular. In both cases, I invested in the center plate, and the rubber washers. Both from Rice equipment. His son operates Joe's Farmalls. Gordon Rice does the F series parts, and his son Joe does the Letter series.

both are good people, and the parts are available from both. I also rotated my bolts 90 degrees, but did not weld and dress them. If I get to a point that I need to do that, I will. Both are working fine.

Well I changed the coupling and it didnt fix the rattling. I then removed the pump and that didnt help. The rattling stops when you push in on the clutch, so I took the input shaft out of the transmission. The main bearing seems fine and the inner shaft bearing seems fine too but then I noticed that the inside of the gear seemed to be rubbed pretty bad by the inner sealed bearing. If anyone understands what I'm saying lol, do you think this would cause the rattling noise?

(quoted from post at 13:04:58 08/04/11) Well I changed the coupling and it didnt fix the rattling. I then removed the pump and that didnt help. The rattling stops when you push in on the clutch, so I took the input shaft out of the transmission. The main bearing seems fine and the inner shaft bearing seems fine too but then I noticed that the inside of the gear seemed to be rubbed pretty bad by the inner sealed bearing. If anyone understands what I'm saying lol, do you think this would cause the rattling noise?

Click to expand...

Was the transmission input yoke bolted tightly to the input shaft?

My M rattled like that when I first bought it. Upon investigation, I found the bolt that held the yoke to the shaft was totally gone. I think someone had worked on it and simply failed to put that bolt back in. A new bolt, large flat washer, and a lock washer fixed the rattling.

That did have a bolt on it and when I removed the
bolt and tried to remove the yoke it wouldn't come
off. So Im going to say its on there tight. I wish
it had been that easy :/