Super H - want to hear it run wont start!

hello guys...need a person(s) to tell me what I need to do to get my super h running. it has been sitting a good many years. the engine was set up. I have it freed up now. Has new plugs, wires, points, condenser. rotor button. I have spark. Carb has been rebuilt, I have cleaned it thouroughly! been apart a bunch of times. Valves are working. made sure that they first worked by pushing on them. then took valve cover off and watched them move....all do. cant get the tractor to even pop. manifold was taken off and all the crud was blown out of it, intake and exhaust....reinstalled and is tight. fresh gas, sediment bowl is clean. good supply of gas to the carb. i dont have a screen installed at the carb. carb bowl is filled up, however u can crank and crank and then take out the plugs and they are dry. dont beleive it is getting gas. like i said carb has been apart numerous times! have good suction. do i have a valve problem even thou the valves are working? any ideas? i have also tried giving it a whiff of ether in the end of the carb....nothing....just like it is not getting to the plugs. please someone help. thanks in advance.!
 
Pull the spark plugs, give each hole a good shot of starting fluid and screw the plugs back in and start it. If it runs then you know it's not getting gas and go from there. Just a thought,make sure the choke is working when you pull the rod, take the intake hose off till you have it running.
 
I have tried putting gas in the cylinders...still dont work. like i said i have spark thou. not sure what the problem is. also the intake hose is off.
 
Hold your hand over the throat of the carburetor while a helper try's to start the engine and see if you have good suction on your hand. Weak suction means low intake manifold vacuum. Weak vacuum could be caused by stuck rings, valves not seating to name a few. Hal
PS: I would try to pull start the tractor if you have another tractor.
 
WD-40 is a good cylinder primer. Take the plugs out and give each hole a healthy shot of 30W oil like the previous post states. Turn her over serveral times to lube the rings. Then give each hole a good shot of WD-40, put the plugs back in and see if it will fire.
 
If the plugs are dry you're not getting fuel, plain and simple.

There's no magic involved. Either the gas isn't getting to the engine because there's no suction, or the gas isn't getting to the engine because something is plugged up in the carburetor.

I took my Super H carb apart half a dozen times before I got it right. There are nooks and crannies in there that are not obvious. On mine the float was apparently jamming against the side of the bowl, but there was no evidence.

One thing to check: Did you open the high speed and low speed needles on the carb after you reinstalled them? I think the low speed is 1-1/2 turns and the high speed is 4-5 turns to start with. If those are tightened down, no gas will flow.

Also use the choke when cranking, but be careful you could flood the engine.
 
I'd suspect that you maybe didn't try hard enough with the ether, and the problem is in the carb.

You said you have a good spark, do you have a spark to each plug?



If it's not even firing with ether, and you're sure you're getting a spark on all cylinders, AND you can feel some suction at the carb, it almost has to be that the timing is way off.

Seems unlikely though, as you didn't mention anything that would have changed the timing since it last ran. But even so, I'd at least eyeball it to be sure it's right.

 
Pull it with the truck/another tractor and spray a little carb cleaner in the carb. It is a lot less explosive than ether and it should get it to pop. The truck will make the engine spin faster and spark hotter.
 
Check your sparkplug wires to make sure you have them in the correct firing order on the cap and that they're going to the correct corresponding
sparkplug. You may have fire to your plugs, but
it may not be firing at the right time. Your plug wires should be in this firing order on the cap:
2-1
4-3 Since the rotor rotates Clockwise.

You should also bring No1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke by removing No1 plug near the radiator. Hold your thumb over the plug hole while a helper hand cranks the engine over slowly until you pressure against yoiur thumb.

Once you feel pressure against you thumb drop a long plastic straw on top of the piston and you watch the straw rise as the helper keeps cranking the engine until the straw quits rising.
Your No1 piston should now be at TDC on the compression stroke. Remove the cap and see where your rotor is pointing. It should be pointing to the No1 plug tower. If it is at the No1 plug tower your engine is in time. If its off you need to pull the distributor or mag and rotate the rotor so it is at the No1 plug tower and reinstall it. Hal
 
Right now i have the tires and rims off the front end because they were flat and weather checked..when I get ahold of a set of tires I will try pull starting it. I do have spark at each cylinder. I have the wires hooked up right on the cap and to the plugs. However I will recheck that the rotor points to number one plug tower on the tdc of compression stroke at cylinder one. Thanks for all of the input. I will get back to you guys and let you know what I found. Appreciate the help!
 
One other possibility is the distributor is out of time. Pull no1 plug, and double check the ignition timing, point gap, coil output, condenser.
Use autolite plugs. It surely must be something simple.
 

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