Owen Aaland......Anyone?

Allan in NE · Jul 13, 2011

Hi Guys,

Hate to keep "leaning" on you fellas, but need advise, as I've never done this before.

Gonna try to re-time this shaft today.

I'm thinking that I need to cut thru the 'tube only' up CLOSE to that original weld so that there is some of that yoke "body" inside to slip the tube back over before the re-weld to help line it up better?

Does this sound like a plan to you?

Thanks,

Allan

Allan in NE · Jul 13, 2011

In other words, so the tube has something to 'slip over'?

Or, is it gonna be all rusted up in there so that it won't come apart after I cut it?

Allan

rustred · Jul 13, 2011

your on track.didnt get into your pic. though but know what you mean. sounds like the plan.

Allan in NE · Jul 13, 2011

Okay,

Gonna take the chop saw and set the depth control to just slice thru that tube and to still cut it as square as I can.

I know one thing, that shaft is really out of phase. Just shakes the whole darned baler and tractor when trying to turn sharp.

Thanks for takin' the time to help,

Allan

rustred · Jul 13, 2011

ok, got into the pic. now. i believe its also ok to grind that weld off and get everything cleaned up good and start fresh also. i dont think it matters if the outer shaft is 1" or so shorter by cutting the ragy end off in a chop saw. give it more of a factory look also.

Allan in NE · Jul 13, 2011

How thick is that tube wall?

Allan

Allan in NE · Jul 13, 2011

Any idea how thick that tube wall is?

Allan

rustred · Jul 13, 2011

i dont thick anymore than 1/8"

M Diesel · Jul 13, 2011

Usually a drive line shop would chuck it up and turn off the weld with a lathe. It isn't hard to do although a chop saw is pretty crude. Never cut mid pipe unless absolutely necessary and a very good weld is possible. As said, losing a little length isn't a bad idea. 1/8" wall tops.

IH fan · Jul 13, 2011

For sure the yoke on the end of the tube and end of the solid shaft need to be aligned... not 90 degrees or any other in between. Found that out the hard way with splined drive shafts we used on some hydraulic test machines.

Funtwohunt · Jul 13, 2011

I had to do this same thing to a shaft on a brush mower I bought a couple of years ago. I used a chop saw and carefully cut around the tube right at the weld. I could see if I cut a bit too deep by the change of metal on the yoke. It come out pretty good and straight. Smoothed up the joint, aligned everything and welded it back. Seems to work just fine. funtwohunt

rhtx55 · Jul 13, 2011

If you can locate a drive shaft shop locally they can get you fixed up in no time, and balance it to boot.
Short of that, you are correct on your approach, keeping it true, straight & square going back together is key.
What holds the square shaft in the tube ?
I know truck driveshafts have a very fine threaded cap that threads onto the tube, and seals the slip joint and prevents the shaft from coming out of the tube. Is yours welded there?

Owen Aaland · Jul 13, 2011

Sounds like a plan. Looks like everyone pretty much has the issue covered.

Allan in NE · Jul 14, 2011

Don't hollar at me; that stuff is paper-thin and I don't have a wire feed. Leastwise, it's timed now. :>)

Allan

rustred · Jul 14, 2011

Right On!

Owen Aaland......Anyone?

Allan in NE

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Allan in NE

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rustred

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Allan in NE

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rustred

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Allan in NE

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Allan in NE

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rustred

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M Diesel

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IH fan

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Funtwohunt

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rhtx55

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Allan in NE

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rustred

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