Heat riser unit on new 560 manifold

Gentlmen, I purchased new after market intake manifold for 560. It came with heat riser parts but no instructions. There is a rod,flap,spring,and butterfly weight. How do you attach flaper to rod? weld it? and how do you align weight to flaper ? is it streight or off set? and attaching spring? whats the relation of the slot on end rod end to flaper and pressed on wieght? Also after all is lined up and ready How in hell do you press shaft to butterfly weight in place when there is a manifold flange next to it. WOW! if you can answer any of these questions ,you guys are much smarter then I. Thanks in advance, Tony

You have a failed OEM manifold, RIGHT?

And a NEW aftermarket manifold you saved big bucks on, right?

You need to look at what's left of the OEM manifold to see how everything fits together, then EARN the savings you got on the manifold transferring over what you have learned/observed to the new manifold!

You will notice that the spring slot on the end of the shaft is offset. Make sure there are bushing in the new manifold before you install the shaft. Put the new control valve in the manifold with the log part up and so the shaft will be exposed in the middle.Slide the shaft through with the small part of the slotted end down to the right. With the weight vertical with the manifold start the shaft into the weight with the slot at about a 45° angle, small part lower right. Support the back side of the weight with something heavy. (Another hammer or piece of iron) Tap the shaft into the weight until the shaft is flush with the far side of the weight.put the control valve parallel with the weight and put a couple of small welds connecting the shaft to the valve. Check to make sure you have things correct before welding. When assembled with the intake manifold the weight arm will be slightly forward of vertical when closed. The top of the valve and weight move forward to almost horizontal when fully opened. Install the spring so that it will hold the valve vertical. As the spring gets hot it will uncoil and allow the valve to rotate forward.

BOB,I did not purchase this at OEM, I purchased at reputable I.H. NEW & SALVAGE. I was told I.H. does not make them anymore ,so yes, its after market. Tried buying good used but found they all had same problem as mine, riser parts burt out or stuck so bad that by time you pull apart you have other things broke. IF YOU CAN GIVE ME A SOURCE OF A BETTER ONE OR ONE THAT SELLER WILL ASSEMBLE OR HELP ME ASSEMBLE, I WILL RETURN THIS ONE AND GO FOR YOURS. I DID NOT BUY PRICE; I BOUGHT AVAILABILITY! As it was I believe I paid 425.00+, plus S.H. OBVIOUSLY,YOU KNOW OF A BETTER SOURCE,PLEASE HELP WITH YOUR KNOWEDGE! IF YOU PREFER PRIVATE , MY E-MAIL IS OPEN. HOPE YOU WILL CONTACT ME! Appreciate your help, Tony

OWEN, Thank you , your reply will be big help if Bob does not come up with a better source. Thanks,Tony

Redgems,

I have a set of writen instructions with pictures, on how to install the parts to this heat riser valve assembly. Once all the pieces are installed in the manifold you need to do a little welding. My e-mail is open.

redgems, you missed bob's point entirely.

The point was that you've got the old manifold sitting right there with all the parts installed in their proper location/orientation. It should be simple enough to make B (new manifold) look like A (old manifold), taking wear and tear into consideration.

Of course if your old manifold was so bad that everything is completely burnt away, that's a completely different story. Should've been changed sooner but of course if you just bought the tractor so that's not really something you had any control over... Usually though there's enough left to work from.

What if his old manifold is damaged or missing?