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3 pt. for SMTA

D

duckguy

New User
I want to put a 3 point hitch on my super MTA and was wondering if anyone could suggest a good one and give some tips on how to route hydraulics for it. thanks in advance.
 
I installed a Worksaver 3 point hitch on my Super MTA and I am extremely satisfied with it. It is a 2 cylinder model and I ran 1/2 inch pipe along the deck on the right side of the seat and put an elbow down with a 6 inch pipe nipple. At the end of the nipple I used a tee for 2 short hydraulic lines. It helps if you have a pipe die and can thread your own pipe to exact measurements. I also have a Saganaw 3 point hitch on another M and it enables you to use your original drawbar. It also is a 2 cylinder model. Be prepared to spend some money having hydraulic lines made.
 
No because those holes are not meant for that kind of stress. The fast hitch does all of its forward pulling from the front drawbar mount up under the belly. All those holes do is hold the hitch up from falling on the ground.
 
mkirsch, I have to disagree. Our 400 has
nothing mounted to where the swinging
drawbar would mount. It has the early version
fast hitch on it.
We'll have to look more closely at the tractors I
guess.
Also, the 3 point system is anchored by pins,
So i would believe an attachment adapter
utilizing multiple bolts of similar diameter to the
pins would be stronger than the anchor pins
themselves. I feel the axle housings are a
weaker mount than anything on the
transmission casting and these old Farmalls
should only have cat 1 or light cat 2 hitches if
converted.

karl f
 
Hydraulic lines are cheap at the Surplus Center. About 25% of local fabricator. Quality is good.
 
<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r16/Wardner/?action=view&amp;current=MTAFasthitch006.jpg" target="_blank">
MTAFasthitch006.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>

I always max out hydraulics on my tractors. Never know when you will need another circuit. That's a SMTA.

The Fast Hitch holes are plenty strong. Those are 5/8" holes and they are heavily webbed on the inside. Below is a W400 with a hitch I built.
<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r16/Wardner/?action=view&amp;current=W-400133.jpg" target="_blank">
W-400133.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>

<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r16/Wardner/?action=view&amp;current=W-400113.jpg" target="_blank">
W-400113.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>
 
Nother pic
<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r16/Wardner/?action=view&current=W-400187-1.jpg" target="_blank">
W-400187-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>

<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r16/Wardner/?action=view&amp;current=W-400126.jpg" target="_blank">
W-400126.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>
 
If you are worried about the strength of the six FH holes, you can run struts from the rear brackets up to the 3/4" holes on either side of the center section.
 
I have a Saginaw on my 450, handy as a shirt pocket. You don't have to worry about tearing up this one, there isn't enough tractor in front of it. I can pick up 1500 lb hay bales, any more and it picks the front of the tractor up. I have also picked up the rear tires then used cribbing to hold it while I changed a tube.

There is no draft control with this setup, but you can pull two pins to make the 3pt float. If you're thinking about getting a 2 or 3 bottom 3pt plow forget it, it doesn't work worth a hoot. I have my original swinging draw bar and the 3pt doesn't interfere with it.

Nate
 
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