Farmall drive train?

I have a 706 that has started acting funny. When you let the clutch out it takes off fine, but when you get rolling it will act like you have dis-engaged the clutch for a moment, then it will take off like you re-engaged the clutch, it will do this two or three times. There seems to be some sound like gear teeth slopping back and forth under the seat pedestal or like the gears are stopping and starting? The clutch is new and is adjusted as the manual states, The T/A is adjusted as the manual states.

The transmission brake is adjusted per the manual. Does the transmission brake stop the gear train when you dis-engage the clutch?

The transmission fluid has always been full, but when I checked it today it was low, I added two gallons on HY-Tran and it still is below the mark to add 1 gallon or more. Could the fluid being low cause this? I will get some more fluid tomorrow and fill back up. There are no leaks on the floor. Please advise if anyone has some thoughts are ideas. Thanks in advance for your time.

Hi. My guess would be it is the TA going out on you. I had a 560 years ago that I was baling with and the TA went out and it pretty much stopped. I don't remember exactly what happened to it but it seems like it had something like a clutch sliding fork and maybe some frictions discs that were involved in the shifting of the TA. Been a long time ago.

Yep, the TA. There are two kinds of TA's, failed, or ready to fail.

I agree. Its the T/A!

Did you adjust the dump valve?

Allan

Not trying to be a 'smart', but are TA's really that bad? I have heard and read mixed stories on them, and must admit I have never owned one. I was around them as a kid, and dad always wanted a tractor that had one for baling. Are they that terrible, or have most been abused, or just worn out from 50 years of use and abuse? My opinion is that if they lasted 20 years (used properly) or more without being gone through, they are pretty darn reliable, and much longer I would call them bullet proof.

What is the proper way to adjust the dump valve?

Thanks

Setting the adjustments on a 706 BY THE BOOK was fine when they were new. Now that she has had shell we say extensive field testing the book does not cover normal ware . So here is a way to do it that will work . So here is what ya do , first off you will need a helping hand . Next make sure that your oil light is working . First set clutch free travel to the book , next set the trans brake , but here is where ya have to start making up for ware in the linkage , Break the lock nut loose and make sure the clevis will turn freely , pull the pin and depress the clutch pedal to the stop so it will contact the deck plate , then hold the trans brake lever back as far as it will go and adjust the clevis out till the pin will slide in freely , let the clutch pedal up and then add one half a turn to sometimes a turn and a half due to ware then lock down the loc nut and install the pin and hair pin . Now keep in mind here that the trans brake will NOT stop the transmission dead in it's tracks when ya push the clutch pedal down , it is to slow the transmission down . Now on to the dump valve adjustment . First unlock the lock nut and back the adjuster bolt off about five tuns , next make sure the tractor is in neutral and park lock in engaged , start the engine and push the pedal down to the stop and hold , now start to turn the dump valve adjusting bolt in SLOWLY and do this TILL THE TEL TALE light just comes on and stop let the clutch pedal up then add one more complete turn to the dump valve adjusting bolt and hold and lock it down with the lock nut .

IF a T/A is kept in adjustment they will last a vary long time . And as for abuse i know myself i have thrashed on them pretty hard over the years and i have never taken one out . I shift them fast no pussyfooten around . On the hyd. T/A's never never use them as a braking system , here again when shifting down for a turn where ya want to keep the engine RPM's up but want to slow ground speed for the turn i apply a little brake to keep a load on the drive line , is this wright or wrong ???????? don't know for sure but it keep the sprag from any back lash. I have installed a lot of T/A'sin the twenty years of fixen I H tractors and i do not know of any of the one's i have installed that have failed yet.

TAs aren't as bad as they are made out to be. If they are adjusted properly and used properly, they will last a very long time. However, many farmers don't adhere to both of these rules at the same time (proper adjustment and proper use). Therefore, many premature failures do occur.

SF

Then you have not installed that many T/As. My Dad has been installing them for 40+ years and still says they are one of the worst inventions IH ever had.lol. But I cant imagine using an IH without a T/A. They are handy. Turn a 1066 up to over 200hp and it shortens the life of them.

We purchased a 1958 Farmall 460 in 1967-well used. We used it hard from 1967 til 1998 and the TA was still going strong after 40 years. That poor 460 plowed, disked, baled, haybined, picked the corn, hauled the wagons to the elevator. Tach quit at 3999 hrs in the late 60s. The old energizer bunny probably had 20,000 hrs. Used the TA a lot on the forage harvestor & at tillage -cause it wasn't a powerhouse. Just TOUGH!

REALLY !!!!!!!!!! No kidding ya sure on that . I'll let you know when the one goes out on our 1066 It has been in there now going on fifteen years . and the one in my 806 god only knows how long it has been in there and i am here to tell ya she ain't setting on STOCK SETTING either . As for how many T/A's i have installed over twenty years i lost count and never gave much thought to it . I would buy any I H that i could find with a bad T/A or dead in the dead row of Stilesville auction twice a month for twenty years plus all that came thru the door for customers. I nevewr kept count on just how many i did . i can tell ya this that i kept four units setting on the shelf at all times along with other parts that i went thru . And the HY Cap truck stopped twice a month . Now maybe your dad knows I H 's with forty years under his belt and maybe i do not have forty years working full time on I H's But i can tell ya this i have been twisten wrenches for the last fifty years on just about everything that moves on tires or tracks from your mothers grocery getter to 8 second quarter mile stuff and several go the full 300 plus feet things. And back to the T/A's there is a wright way of doing one then there is lets just stuff it in and don't care how long it lasts because i am only here for a pay check . Let me tell you this , when your name is over the door and YOU are the one that is going to EAT YOUR MISTAKE you had best be doing it better then the other guy as this is what brings home the bacon . It does not matter how many excellent jobs you do it is the one bad job that will kill you.

Yes but how hard do you use your tractors. They dont last like a powershift does. And yes my Dads name was over the door for 40+ years. He is 70 now. Never had a tractor come back because of workmanship issues but the T/A was not IHs best idea. A 1066 had a great motor and trans but thats about it, and this is coming from a true IH diehard.They had poor brakes,hydraulics,cab and other issues but what a pulling machine. I heard somewhere that IH said that with great care and use that a torque would only last 3000 hrs, ever heard of this or is it a wives tale? If they are such a great idea then why do you keep 4 of them on the shelf? lol. My Dad always had around 4 or more on the shelf to. He has an 856, 1066 and 1466 and loves them old binders. Where are you from and how do the crops look in your area?

Tractor Vet

You were on the right track with the dump valve I think. I have a few more questions for you, what exactly does the dump valve do? I have one oil light on the right side instrument panel, but I have a Engine oil sensor and a sensor on the dump valve, do they both use the same light? I backed the adjusting screw off like you stated, but the light would only flicker? So I turned the dump valve adjuster in a few more turns and drove the tractor, no more noise and it did not stop and start as before. Can I turn it in too far?

Thanks for your time and help.

Lets see here how hard do we work them ??? well the 1066 does all the heavy stuff now on my buddy's place as it replaced a 65 706 gasser and that replaced a S/M This year it got the bag worked off it pulling a Landoll Chisel that has been barn yard re engineered with five DMI parabolic deep till shanks with seven inch tiger points . The old DMI block man told us that there was noway a 1066 would pull it in our soil . Yea wright she did it in first high after we were able to keep the rims from spinning in the tires and at 14 inches deep in clay As for hour put on per year well over 12-1500 hours His 1066 was found dead in the dead row and we have gone thru it from the rad cap to the pto . Don't know where ya get the idea that the brakes are no good as they are good enough to stop the silage wagons in our country and we do have hills . And OBTW they usually weigh in at over 26-29000 lbs coming out of the field As we had to weigh each one one year for the ASC . My 806 has almost10000 hrs on her and five years ago was the first time that the valve cover was off . And three years ago i had to put a new clutch in her as i pulled the center out of the disc pulling silage wagons , i was coming up a hill and she broke traction and bounced a couple times and the rest is history . As for crops around here Haw it is anybodys guess as what will come of this year. Early corn that came up looks good in some spots and i do mean spots as the rest of the field never came up . The next planting window crops don't look to bad but they will not yield like they should and there is some ground that never got planted . We were real late getting corn in , the latest we ever planted . We need to fill three cribs , But if nothing else we will chop it . Today i mowed the start of second crop hay and till have one field of first to mow yet. That field i am not looking forward to doing as it will put a pucker factor in your seat. IT is steep and also has a nasty side hill that is vary hard to keep the haybine in the cut then ya have the ground hog holes , hit one of them on the side hill and it will make your heart beat a tad faster. The land is rented ground and the land owner will not let us shell we say remove them as he thinks they are cute. I cna tell ya this that the vary first T/A i did for a customer went into a 1066 that has the wick turned up and it is still going strong after 20 years So you can throw your 3000 hr. out the winder. IF you do not adjust them then yea they will fail don't care it it is a mech . T/A or a hyd. T/A . If you have to fight the gear shift to get it out of gear then it needs adjusted .And that my boy is what causes them to fail. And also using the Hyd. T/A as a braking system will over stress the sprag and then it will fail. And you speak of power shift, YEa they are nice BUT guess what they go out also .It is like this , IF MAN MADE IT IT WILL BREAK don't care what it is it will break .

Well there is a reason they went away from dry brakes, we have hill around here, try stopping a 34,000lb manure spreader, you can smell the brakes.
Send me a weight slip and a video of it pulling that dmi and I will believe you. We had a 220 hp 1466 that would pull a 9 shank glencoe chisel plow faster than high 1. Need a front wheel assist. Usually takes 75 hp per shank so I think your a little on the full of it side or cant read a tape measure. What type of wagons did you use to haul silage in. Our neighbor has 20ft miller pros combo boxes and you have to work damn hard to get 10 ton of corn silage in them.

The Tel tale lite is a dual purpose lite , It tells you when the engine oil pressure is low and also tells ya when you have low pressure in the MCV . SO if it is flickering ya need to know WHY . Is the engine oil pressure low at idle or is the MCV pressure low . Now if it is BLINKING then it still has the org. bulb as they were a flasher bulb. And yes you can turn it to far in and or not far enough . So and other way of setting ther dump valve is with a oil pressure gauge that will work for you and when setting the dump valve with a gauge you press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold and with the dump valve bolt backed off to where you are still showing pressure you turn it in till the gauge goes to 0 then let the pedal up and add one full turn and lock it down with the lock nut.

Tractor Vet

Do you take Calls? I would be willing to pay for your time? Please advise via e-mail above.

Thanks for your responses.