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What procedures are necessary to remove a slipping T. A. from a 986 tractor. I have heard the shaft is the most expensive item.
Thanks, RH
 
You sure ya wanna do that?

Takin' the TA out of a Farmall is just about the same as castrating 'em. Not much there when ya get done.

I'd fix it right and she'll last another 40 years. :>)

Allan
 
I agree with Allan, The cost will be similar and the tractor less useful, and less valuable.
HiCapacity and others have rebuilt units, Kevin Meier (who posts here but doesnt advertize) also is a reliable source. Jim
 
It means a double split and complete tear down of the range transmission . And if you are thinking about installing a t/a ELIMINATOR KIT Let me put it to you this way (1) that will cost you almost as much as just putting in a good heavy duty T/A ,(2) if you do put in a T/A eliminator kit you just took anywhere from 1500-2500 off the resale of the tractor .
 
Tractor will begin to slow down moving very slowly and then take off again back to the original speed. With the T.A. pulled back, the problem does not happen as often but still it slips. Thanks for the help.
 
The issue is probably the one way clutch in the rear of the TA. If it slips, the TA is then driving through the rear TA locking clutch which is not designed to hold engine power, just prevent freewheeling.
My first step would be to over fill the Hydraulic system with five gallons. It will not hurt anything. If that fixes it, there is a suction leak in the MCV pump supply. If it does not, The issue is probably the one way clutch. Jim
 
They do make and HD TA now. It is expensive, straight shaft kits are cheap, dont let anyone tell you different. T/As were not the best idea in the first place.
 
Well to each their own opinion. A TA is to a number series farmall (Or SMTA etc.) as pockets on bib overalls. They can fail, from slow shifting the stick, or 10,000 hours, but they make many tasks under load very easy. Jim
 
I put the TA eliminator in my 1086, the cost was about the same as a cheap TA unit. Could not be happier with it. And I'm not saying that just to argue. In the first 30 years that I used this tractor I might have pulled the TA lever three times, just don't need it. I could see using it if you are maxed out equipment-wise, but the "you'll ruin your tractor" blanket statment isn't universally accurate. There's only three kinds of TA's, new, about to go out, and out!
 
The TA in your tractor that went out did so because it was used 3 times. Put a player on the sidelines and never put them in (even) practice, and they will not play when needed.
I still have the TA in our 350U and it has 10k hours on it with no issues. Adjusted once every 5 years yes, but just fine.
Put me in coach I'm Ready to Play. Jim
 
I dunno. I used my SMTA to mow some alfalfa/OG the other day and I used that TA lever about 20 times.
 
(quoted from post at 12:27:01 06/16/11) I dunno. I used my SMTA to mow some alfalfa/OG the other day and I used that TA lever about 20 times.
I have used TA equipped Farmalls and rather than let them lug down more than 150-200rpm, I always used the TA. Have plowed, disked, baled alfalfa and chopped corn. Used the TA for all of them. It's there, why not use it, and why size your implement so small you don't get the full use of the tractor? it's been a while, but I doubt I used the TA more than a couple times an hour on average, but that's what it's there for.
 
Well, it did make it over 7000 hrs. before it started causing problems, and I agree that it may have lasted longer if it was used and adjusted properly but it wasn't. Same thing on all of our older tractors, none of them were used or maintained, but the high side never acted up so they have never been fixed.
 
Sure sounds like you are loosing hydraulic pressure to your direct drive clutch pack in the TA assembly. I'm attaching a few pictures of a repair stand that I have made to handle the TA repair job much easier.
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