A press fit crank pulley...aint

Hey all, pulled the new crank pulley out of the box nfrom YT and smacked it on with the palm of my hand. Then I was cranking it with the hand crank a while (which doesnt fit quite right) then noticed it was wobbleing with the crank handle. I grabbed it with both hands and it popped right off.. Is this "normal" or do I have a bum crank or bum pulley? Is there a remedy? Or are these pulleys just not much pumpkin?
 
What tractor? -- I didn't know that new pulleys were available -- return it and get a good used one. Should not be hard to find.
 
Its on an A. Im gonna call yt tom. see what they say. Thought about drilling and tapping for set screw. wasnt sure if anybody else ran into this.
 
The crank pulley on my 1939 A has a bolt in it to tighten it up. Maybe it was an afterthought although mine is one of the first thousand. I have no idea if it's the original pulley.
 
Yes. iM quite sure I got the right one. No my crank isnt drilled for a bolt. It may just have been an off day by the guy who cut it? Tolerance stacking?
 
There were 2 different pulley's for the C-113. One had a set screw and a jamb nut, and the other was a press fit. I can't remember which one was early and which one was later. I also dont know if the shaft size was different for each one.

But there were 2 different applications.......
 
Ahhah!! i have the set screw type!! That would explain it! My previous pulley was welded on. so i had to cut it off. Can you still buy the early type or am i just gonna have to drill and tap it?
 
It would be the early type as mine is an early 1945 A distilate with m$w pistons. From what I understand only some 200 were made that way.
 
If you make a setscrew for the new one it will be out of round. The difference is substantial. The real solution is to get the correct pulley with a set screw. I would have some measurements taken to assure me that the crank was standard (correct for year) size. If the old pulley was welded, there is no telling what has been done. Most 113Cid pulleys are a dramatic press fit, requiring a hydraulic press or great puller with splitter on the pulley to remove. And pressure to install. The setscrew pulleys would not be loose, they would be near zero clearance to light press. Jim
 
I can understand that. I will call a Freind and see if he has a used one that is the set screw type. Thanks for all the helpfull info guys!
 
I would guess that the reason your old pulley was welded on to the cranks is because it was too loose and wore the end of the shaft so a new pulley would not stay on. Maybe we could prevail on someone here to measure the end of their crankshaft to see what size it is supposed to be. With all the questions asked here about the A/B/C tractor engines someone must have one disassembled that could be measured.
 
The previous guy had the same problem as you. That's why the pulley was welded on.

If only 200 tractors came with the set screw type pulley, you're going to have a heck of a time finding one.

Try and find one, but when you can't locate one after a couple of weeks, go ahead and drill/tap the pulley for at least two set screws, situated 180 degrees apart. Putting them opposite each other and tightening them down equally will minimize or eliminate any out-of-round issues.
 
Thanks to all of you for taking the time to answer. Yes im gonna call the machine shop and see if he can hook me up. The bushing idea i think is gonna be my best bet. As far as measuring the crank, I'll have to just measure mine as he will need to custom make it to my crank. Thanks!
 
Better have someone mike the crank. Adding a set screw if it doesent fit any thghter than that wont keep it on. Your crank must be worn from a loose fitting pulley. If you do add a set screw make sure its short enough to clear the casting and i would place it over the key if you can.
 
Any under sized shaft (or over sized pulley hole), cannot be pushed to one side and remain in the middle. A .010 difference will result in .005" out of round on the pulley. .005" is a lot for a belt to handle. The seal would go away almost as fast as it was started.
Jim
 
I drilled the crank pulley and put a bolt in it. i dimpled the crank a little as well so the bolt had something to register in. It clears the front end casting well. Finally got it running and seems to work well. thanks all!
 

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