300 clutch and brakes

chris in tn

New User
I have a 300 I am working on and the clutch wont work correctly. It won"t stop the trans gears spinning when pushed in and gears just grind when you try to shift, although every once in a while it works perfect!

I have followed the T/A adjustment procedure foud here and the clutch in the T/A area looks to be releasing correctly and in good shape. Is there any other regular clutch adjustment besides the free play to try and/or is their a cover I can take off to look inside like the T/A to see what is going on? The pedal pushes down with tension all the way to the stop when I try to use it. I have a manual on order but it"s not here yet-

Also, I am going to do the brakes. I searched the archives and hear people talking about the OEM brake service where they send some of their parts - Can someone give me more details? Thanks
 
Chris...could be the pilot bearing starting to seize and turning the input shaft or a broken finger or an out of adjustment pressure plate. Engine clutch should stop the input to the TA regardless. I'd split the 300 and bite the bullet and treat it to some new parts before putting some gears in the tranny. Resurfacing the flying wheel probably wouldn't hurt either. Do it right and then you are done. Brakes...take them apart and clean and lube the balls and ramps up abit and make sure the disks can slide on the splines and see if there is any difference. I replaced the disks on mine from IH....Ron
 
Chris
I don't know what your linkage looks like but it might warrent a good look. I just had that problem with my 8N Ford. When I found it (after splitting the tractor) it looked like a thin crack in the paint. The problem was on the outside of the tractor. You can see the pictures on the N series Ford on about page 3. Title is 8N clutch problem.
 
Pulled the brakes off, had a lot of grease in them, I am guessing from leaking brake shaft seals. One of the springs was broken also.

The inner discs against the transmission housing are still on the brake spindles. From what I have read here they can be wedged off carefully using a pry tool. Is the oil seal then accessable to simply be removed from the outside and another pressed into place? The IH parts diagram looks like there is a retaining clip and a couple seals there so I"m not sure-

Pulled the clutch inspection plate and all I could see looks to work ok, so I guess it's got to come apart. Anyone here ever posted a how-to on splitting one of these 300s with hints and tricks?
 
Also, when I get the brakes back up, what is the adjustment procedure with the lock nuts on the actuator arms? I should have waited for the manual I guess to start the project, but had to make use of the holiday!
 

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