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Pulling the motor out of Super A today. Any tips?

G

GRAPE-DRANK

Member
Pulling the motor out of the Super A today. Worked on breaking her down till 1:30 a.m. I'm just about ready to go. Need to pull the front end apart. Does anyone have any tips I could use?
 
i bolted flat plat to both sides of the bell houseing and welded square tubbing down to hit the floor. home made stands. hope thats what mite help you. then you can use your cherry picker to remove the front end and set aside.
 
I did a Farmall A back in 1975-1976. After removing the hood,grille and radiator I unbolted the front steering and rolled the front wheels along with the steering wheel out from under the tractor after supporting the engine. You need a block under the drawbar since once you pull the engine the tractor will tilt backwards. Those engines have dowels and you need to wiggle the engine and once you get a little gap between the engine and dowel use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the engine off the dowels. Use a suitable hoist to handle that engine. The clutch assy should be on the engine too. Good time to have that rebuilt when its off the engine. Hal
a41068.jpg
 
I rebuilt my engine two years ago. I took a lot of pictures, if any will be helpful. Where are you in the process? I blocked under the front end of the torque tube, and never had any issue with the tractor trying to tip over backward, even after I took the heavy hydraulic block off the torque tube. You can see it here...

farmall6.JPG


farmall9.JPG


The entire front end, with the steering wheel, can be unbolted off and walked away (you can even still steer!) from the front of the tractor. Then I stripped everything else off the block, and used a cherry=picker on the block. Didn't take much wiggling to get it loose, and then I put it on an engine stand.
Not knowing where you are, *ping* again if you have another question.
 
I'm going to go get an engine lift and jack. What did you guys use to lift the motor up? Did you wrap a chain around the exhaust manifold? I haven't figured out where I am going to grab the the engine yet.
 
4 bolts hold the whole front end onto the engine. I blocked it up under the torque-tube (previous pics), and then boards under the wheels so the assemble wouldn't drop, unbolt the steering wheel, take off the 4 bolts, and walk the front end away whole and entire...

rehab7.JPG


Part of the cast steering box comes up behind the pulley, so you have to drop the steering wheel (tilting the assembly) to get it from behind the pulley.

farmall5.JPG


I then stripped everything else off the engine...

farmall8.JPG


and once done, you can see how to lift the block. I took out two of the head bolts, and screwed in two eye-bolts of the same thread size, and used a chain with the cherry-picker.

IMG_2805.JPG


I then took off the flywheel before hooking the block to the engine stand.
 
Thanks Pete, that's very helpful, especially the part about taking the front end off. I wasn't planning on taking the head off. In fact I don't want to to that at all if I don't have to. I wanted to unbolt the motor and take the whole thing to a machine shop.



So I want to choose a different option for grabbing the motor. I'll have some time to think about it. I just got back from Northern Toll with an engine hoist (cherry picker) and I have to put it together.
 
"I wasn't planning on taking the head off. I wanted to unbolt the motor and take the whole thing to a machine shop."

That'll work!

How are you getting it to the machine shop? Be careful of the oil pan if you're leaving that on. And, be careful of the exhaust manifold- I'd be leery of wrapping a chain around that, or around anything. The eye-bolts on the top of the block make it real easy. I just set it in the hatchback of my car, but I had stripped it clean, and carried everything to the shop in separate pieces.

IMG_2869.JPG


It's risky, though, if you're not REAL comfortable that you can get it all back together. I had manuals, and friends, one of whom is a master Chrysler mechanic. I was fortunate.

So good luck. Any other questions, fire away.
 
Go ahead and take the head off.

1) It's not a big deal, all nuts and bolts and

2) the shop's gonna do it anyway.

Just remember to collect all your push rods and take them to the shop, as well, so they can chek the mor being straight.

With the head off, you can lift with eye bolts as others have illustrated and suggested, or with bolts and washers passed through links of chain. Either is preferable to trying to lift with straps which can slip and leave you with a disaster.

If you have a set of wrenches, you can do this.
 
I would pull the head, then you can use eye bolts to make your lift like Pete has on his block. Hal
 

Now I need to think about how I'm going to replace the throwout bearing. Is there anything else I should replace before re-assembling the motor?
 
Never a better time to check out your clutch and replace the pilot bushing. As for the pilot bushing, it's in the center of the rear of the crankshaft, might wanta have the shop do it along with whatever else they're doing.
 
(quoted from post at 14:58:04 05/30/11) you may also want to pull the torque tube, and check the transmission coupling. they are known to wear.


Andy
Click to expand...

I would like to do that Andy. Can you tell me how to do it? I would like to replace all the internals while I have the tractor split.
 
(quoted from post at 14:52:05 05/30/11) Once, I pulled a super c engine by jacking it up via the torque tube, removing the front end, and running the bed of a ford ranger under it, setting the motor on a temp spare. installed it the same way.


food for thought for the po boy.

Andy
Click to expand...

I like it!

Forgot to tell you that earlier.
 
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