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Starting Cub w/Rebuilt Engine

E

equeen

Member
Guidance please, before I shoot myself in the foot or wallet.

Should be getting my 1950 Cub engine back from the rebuilder within a day or so. The flywheel, clutch and pressure plate will be attached when it returns. New valves will have been adjusted.

What are the steps I should follow in preparing the Cub to receive the engine and in getting the engine/Cub ready for me to give the starter a whirl? Make the list as long as is needed for a first-timer in this regard.

Thanks.
 
I recommend that you install the engine, be sure that the engine, trans, hydraulic oils are full.
When filling the coolant, if the temp sender is on top of the head, let it loose, allowing the air to bleed out, then tighten it. I would remove the spark plugs, put some light oil in each cylinder, then spin the engine to raise the oil pressure. Re-install the spark plugs, and start it up. Let it run above idle speed and look for any problems.
 
Above all, check oil pressure through an oil gallery plug opening. By that I mean hand pump oil into a gallery after removing a 1/8" pipe plug to see if there is any resistance. There are several plugs that rebuilders tend to leave out and they cannot be seen after engine is assembled.

Don't know why a competent rebuilder wouldn't do this to satisfy himself that the engine is capable of holding pressure. I'll bet a few have had to replace trashed engines.

Ask the rebuilder if he replaced the plug in the tappet chamber and the one behind the camshaft gear.
 
One of the problems starting a rebuilt cub engine is making sure the oil pump is primed. As you know the oil pump is on the back of the engine and has to pull the oil up from the pan. There is an oil gallery plug in the left rear of the engine that leads to the oil pump. It is recommended that you fill that with oil so the oil pump has oil in it just prior to starting the engine. Then make sure you have oil pressure right away. Roger
 
Before bolting the engine up to the torque tube adjust the clutch fingers. They should be 1 1/4 " from the point that contacts the throwout bearing to the back of bottom plate surface of the pressure plate. Make sure they're all the same measurement.
 
Adding to this sage advice, Using a pump style oil can with a small hose or tube as a fitting will work well. Use 15-40 oil in the pump to help prime the system. they need this care. Packing the pump before assembly with Vaseline is a confidence builder, and will assure a self priming startup. Jim
 
If the mag or distrubutor was removed you need to bring No1 piston near the radiator to TDC on the compression stroke. Once you have the No1 piston at TDC rotate the rotor so its pointing to the No1 plug tower and install it. I would've had the rebuilder to adjust the valve clearance. Hal
 
I'd inquire as to how they handled the rear seal replacement !! The new seals have been known to leak at an alarming rate as they are a tad smaller than the originals. Go to farmallcub.com and search for multiple posts on problems with them. A member machines them a bit larger and then has a seal that's a nice, tight fit in the retainer. If nothing else, I'd remove it and JB Weld it back into the retainer otherwise you'll be splitting the tractor. Craig
 
Don't believe I ever saw a factory-equipped temp gauge OR sender on a '50-vintage Cub. I know where IH mounted the ammeter, in the switch panel/rear hood and gas tank support...and I know where the factory mounted the oil pressure gauge, next to the oil filter.

So maybe I never saw a temp gauge on a Cubbie of that era simply because I never knew where to look for the gauge...'course, in my days of paging through [and selling parts from] a TC-37 Cub parts book, can't recall ever seeing one there, either. Problem is probably just me.
 
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