Torque Amplifier (TA) Inspection, what have I found?

FarmallhJCR · May 7, 2011

Tractor won"t shift into Direct Drive (hi), only drives in with TA engaged (low, free wheels down hills). Opened up the 4 bolt inspection cover under the steering wheel/gas tank and this is what I found. All pictures are taken from the clutch side of the tractor (left side if sitting on the seat facing forward). The plate with the holes in it that is all bent up I am thinking is the clutch backer plate (loose and flopping around ID is much larger than the spline), disc in the middle (doesn"t spin rides directly on the spline), and a thicker plate that only spins one way clockwise, sun gears?). Then some springs and retainers I fished out of the bottom of the housing.... How can I get the tractor out of TA (low) and into Direct Drive without splitting it???? Anyone experience this? Any remedies?

CNKS · May 7, 2011

It has to be split, can't help you much with the repair, except that if you don't already know, direct goes thru that clutch. With the TA lever back you disengage the clutch. It has nothing to disengage so it is in the TA mode all the time. And you are going to finish off the TA by freewheeling down hill (It's supposed to freewheel, but you are supposed to keep it out of TA when going down hill). I'm surprised the thing moves at all.

D Slater · May 7, 2011

Its going to take a split behind the engine to repair and get direct drive. T/A clutch PP is junk and looks like the ear or ears is broken of the T/A clutch carrier. Suspect the release bearing is shot also. T/a clutch needs to hold for direct drive. As you can tell T/A range with a good t/a unit doesn't care if the clutch gone.

FarmallhJCR · May 7, 2011

Can the loose plate assembly and clutch disc be welded to the clutch carrier? This would essentially "engage the clutch" permanently and ultimately be in Direct Drive????

Janicholson · May 7, 2011

The unit operates at engine speed. Welding on it, or re bolting it in place with spacers to force the drive of the disk is not a good plan. The balance needs to be close, and the parts are not radically expensive. Do it correctly. Jim

FarmallhJCR · May 8, 2011

Thanks for the advice! I am going to move forward with the split at the engine/bell housing and replace the entire TA clutch assembly. Is there anything else you would recommend I inspect/replace while I have the tractor split there? I would like to only have to do this once so I want to make sure I cover anything and everything! From what I have read in past posts this is a pretty simple procedure once it is all apart. This is my first clutch replacement so any help or advice is greatly appreciated as I will be using my I&T manual as a primary resource!

oldtanker · May 8, 2011

Make sure you have a manual and get all the adjustments set up correctly.

Rick

CNKS · May 8, 2011

Make sure the TA does not slip under load. A quick check is to put it in 3rd or 4th and push on the brakes until the engine nearly dies. A better idea is to put a load on it in the field. Otherwise, when you get done you will have direct, but possibly a short lived TA if you use it much.

pete 23 · May 8, 2011

I think you may well better be prepared for more than a simple ta clutch job on that old girl the way those pictures look. Make sure the flywheel portion of the ta clutch is tight on the carrier. It sits on splines and is held on with a nut. If very loose your ta clutch won't last very long. Also, to check the low side, a better way than putting a load on tractor is to check it with no load. As once they lock up they rarely slip, it is just when they start that initial engagement. What I do is allow tractor to coast slightly and then see if it takes a hold smoothly with out a jerk or slip when it start to pull tractor. I do this several times. Also, with the cover off, main clutch disengaged, the carrier will turn freely forward and should lock immediately in opposite direction. I take like a hammer handle and tap on carrier to see if it will solidy hold . If not, it won't last very long. It is no different than a over running starter drive. You can often times just feel them and tell if they will give trouble or not.

TractormanNC · May 8, 2011

Hey jcr,

If you want to do it right the first time and not have to go back into it, save yourself some grief and replace the WHOLE TA unit. Takes a double split to do it but the way those pics look I would guess that the rest of it might be in bad shape too.

mkirsch · May 9, 2011

I bet someone had a "runaway" with that tractor.

They pulled the TA lever back and let it freewheel down a hill, and the TA clutch pressure plate exploded from the RPMs.

Replacing the TA clutch stuff isn't too bad. Only a single split required.

FarmallhJCR · May 14, 2011

Began putting together a parts list:

360215R94 - Pressure Plate Assembly (is this the entire "clutch cover assembly #35" as described as in the shop manual????)

375701R91 - 7" Disc "Driven Plate #39)

359895R3 - T/A Clutch Carrier #47 (can you reuse the locking washer #46 and nut #45 that are in there if they are not in bad shape???)

832065 - Throwout Release Bearing (not an IH parts # but this is what I was told rides on the release fork, can anyone identify this # as being correct???)

364432R91 - Coupler Sleeve Cylinder (this what I can tell rides on the T/A clutch shaft and is moved by the throwout release bearing to push on the clutch cover assembly/pressure plate????)

Can anyone verify if this parts list is correct for replacing the T/A clutch components from the Clutch Carrier forward????

Does this cover all the parts in front of the

charles todd · May 15, 2011

Dude, that's nasty! It will take a single split to fix that. Your parts list looks pretty good without me getting out the parts manual. What tractor model is it?

As for the TA, if it feels good, leave it for now. If it make noise or slips, I'd do it too. Once assembled, ADJUSTMENTS BY THE BOOK IS CRUCIAL! I cannot stress that enough. Most TA and TA clutch failures are from mis-adjustments and not shifting it like you stole it. It should take less than 1 second to change in/out of TA. DO NOT EASE IT IN!

Good luck,
CT

FarmallhJCR · May 15, 2011

Yep, I was surprised when I opened up the cover as well, don"t know how long ago it let go previous owner got tractor from his father like this and he only plowed his 100ft driveway with it last winter. It is a International 544 utility version, not Farmall. TA seems to be strong as it doesn"t slip when I hit the brakes, lugs the Diesel right down. Its a good clean overall tractor except for the TA clutch.

charles todd · May 15, 2011

Fix the TA clutch and be done. I would not try to cobble anything. Once you have all 10 gears working, just 5 are not enough.

Good looking tractor.

Good luck,
CT

Torque Amplifier (TA) Inspection, what have I found?

FarmallhJCR

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CNKS

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D Slater

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FarmallhJCR

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Janicholson

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FarmallhJCR

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oldtanker

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CNKS

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mkirsch

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