Farmall 240 Gas Tank Removal - Suggestions for Success.

Farmallhal

Well-known Member
I need to remove my Farmall 240 fuel tank and having never been into the sheet metal on a Farmall 240, 340, 460 or 560 was wondering if anyone could share some right and wrong ways to remove it from the tractor. I have found with the instrument panel being what appears attached to the sheet metal above the tank that it might be a little messy with everyting hanging loose and my existing original wire harnesses are not in all that good of shape to accept much abuse.
I'm thinking I just need to get all the sheet metal off the top of the tractor and tank appears to be held in with four bolts so once access is obtained shouldn't be an issue. Just looking for suggestions on how to handle all the other stuff to gain access to the tank from someone who has "been there - done that". Thanks for any suggestions and comments relative to this matter, Hal.
 
HAL...I can't answer your question per se, but would strongly recommend that you DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY as step #1.

Rick
 
Thanks Rick for the safety hint and already have that done and tank has been empty and open to the air for about two weeks now but still on the tractor. Thanks for keeping us safe and not overlooking something of that nature, Hal.
 
(quoted from post at 15:21:20 04/30/11) I need to remove my Farmall 240 fuel tank and having never been into the sheet metal on a Farmall 240, 340, 460 or 560 was wondering if anyone could share some right and wrong ways to remove it from the tractor. I have found with the instrument panel being what appears attached to the sheet metal above the tank that it might be a little messy with everyting hanging loose and my existing original wire harnesses are not in all that good of shape to accept much abuse.
I'm thinking I just need to get all the sheet metal off the top of the tractor and tank appears to be held in with four bolts so once access is obtained shouldn't be an issue. Just looking for suggestions on how to handle all the other stuff to gain access to the tank from someone who has "been there - done that". Thanks for any suggestions and comments relative to this matter, Hal.

I took mine off my Farmall 240 2 years ago to seal the tank. Had a pinhole. Take the side panels off the hood. Take the radiator cap, gas cap, muffler, and air breather off. Take the hood off. Take the sheet metal off above the tank. It is separate from the hood, but the hood overlaps the bolts for this piece. There will be a small piece of metal under the touch control handles held on by two sheet metal screws that needs to come off. Now before you move anything on the gas tank cover, take all the screws off the instrument cluster along with the white corner pieces and sides. Need to remove the panel by the gear shift too. You should be able to take the gas tank cover off at this point with some maneuvering of the instrument cluster. There are four bolts holding the tank down. The choke cable runs thru some clamps on the tank bolts, so don't loose them. It sounds worse than it really is. I would replace anything like the choke cable at this point if you need one because you don't want to do this again for stuff like that. Good Luck,

-Horsepoor
 
Thanks for the very detailed removal instructions and could you share on how the lights play in the removal also. They appear to be attached to that back part of the hood over the gas tank quite solid and do they come off separate or with that back sheet metal piece? Alos, I am in need of replacing the tachometer cable and tach also. I do have another tach so can mount it on the panel during this tear down. I don't have the cable yet and think it is going to be a hard to find item. I don't even have the old one on the tractor so don't even know what I'm looking for or it's routing at this time and they are NLA from CaseIH. Another question, did you put the new sediment bowl on before or after reinstalling the tank? There certainly isn't much room beneath the tank for putting it in later but it would probably go with effort. Thanks again and I am going to get into this as soon as I clearn out enough room in my work shop for it, Hal.
 
The lights should not be a problem in the removal, since you won't be doing anything but pushing the gauge assembly and gas tank hood up and out of the way. There was enough slack in the wiring to allow that on my tractor. As far as your tach cable goes, It is Case-IH part number 133391R91,

https://webparts.pvassociates.net/cnh/webparts/main.php

I can't find my old one to get an exact length, but you might find a similar replacement at OEM Tractor Parts dot com Or link_disallowed dot com. Steiner part number is FDS423 and the price is $14.95

Next answer, put the sediment bowl on AFTER the tank. No sense in breaking it during the installation. There is plenty of room to put it on later. I took mine out to clean it in carb cleaner this weekend during a carburetor rebuild.

Hope this helps,
-Horsepoor
 
"don't even know what I'm looking for or it's routing"

Routes from under the instrument cluster, crosses under the gas tank with the hydraulic lines to the drive below the distributor.

-Horsepoor
 
Thanks for all your support in this matter. The reason I asked about the lights is that they appear to be fastened to that rear hood or tank cover which has to be removed to get to the tank. I guess you just need a couple of extra hands to hold it up and out of the way when getting the tank out?? My email is open and if you don't mind would you share your email address and/or contact phone no. so I can make contact with you when I get started on this job in a couple of weeks or so? It sure is nice to find someone who has recently done this on their tractor. Thanks again for your responses and guidance in this effort, Hal.
 

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