Bought a Dearborn Plow

Yooper Farmall · Apr 25, 2011

Sent out a couple emails to people with plows last week to see if they still had them, if they would be around this holiday weekened, and if they had a way to load it in the back of a pickup. No responses, so Saturday I logged back on to craiglist and found this freshly painted plow for less money than I"ve seen all the rusty brown plows advertised for. Apparently he posted it and an hour later I called. We picked it up last night.

No, that"s not my place and not me in the picture, it is my tractor advisor.

The Saginaw 3pt will move a few inches to the right, and there is a slight adjustment in the plow, but apparently I"d still be 6 inches from having the rear tire ride in the furrow. I assume the only fix is to reverse the cast iron centers.

The plow came off of a Jubilee, it slides right onto my 3 point lower link but the Saginaw"s link ball completely coveres up the hole where the pin goes. Apparently the old Ford tractors had a thinner 3 pt arm. The only fix I can think of would be to file out and make the pin hole bigger.

The 3rd picture shows a cotter pin I could barely fit through the hole to move the plow across the yard.

gene bender · Apr 25, 2011

The rolling cutters and joiners need some adjusting and you still think you can plow with that three pt set-up its not made for plowing have fun

mkirsch · Apr 25, 2011

Post a picture of the rig from straight behind with the plow on the ground.

I think you may be misunderstanding where the furrow wheel needs to be.

gene bender · Apr 25, 2011

Yes he needs to move the furrow wheel in a bunch. He was told that on another post and also the hitch he has doesent do a good job of plowing unless the ground is level as a bar. Those 3pt just werent made for a plow unless you dont care what kind of a job they do.

Yooper Farmall · Apr 25, 2011

I have a few pictures from rear of the tractor but nothing directly behind the plow. I"m confident in the guy who is measuring it up for me, we are about 6 inches off of the rear tire being in the furrow but I"ll be taking the wheel center off to paint, so I"ll just reverse it and that"ll put the rear wheel right where it needs to be.
True, this Saginaw doesn"t have draft control, so going up or down a slight grade the plow will dig a little deeper or not as deep. The area I"ll be working is relatively flat. I have a friend that works 30 acreas with this setup. I"m only doing food plots and having fun playing with equipment, if the plow various in depth here and there I doubt the deer will care ! It"ll just mean I"ll have more fun with my disc cleaning up.
I"d much rather sit on a classic red tractor and do an imperfect job than sit on a Kabota with pristine plow rows. I"m keeping eye open for a little genius with rubber, but with this painted up 2 bottom at 1/2 the price I"ve seen rusted up messes sell for, I thought it worth a little fun!

Jim Becker · Apr 25, 2011

(quoted from post at 09:55:54 04/25/11)The plow came off of a Jubilee, it slides right onto my 3 point lower link but the Saginaw"s link ball completely coveres up the hole where the pin goes. Apparently the old Ford tractors had a thinner 3 pt arm. The only fix I can think of would be to file out and make the pin hole bigger.

Put 2 notches in the ball to make clearance for the pin. The problem part is Saginaw's ball. You might as well modify it to fit a standard part rather than modifying a good part to match the oddball. Then the next implement you buy will fit too.

Nate V. IA · Apr 25, 2011

I tried to do the same thing as you were and had terrible results, I'm with gene, find a pull type. I spent most of a day trying to plow one acre and in the end I just ran the disc over it a couple of times and that was that. Half the time the plow would run out of the ground and the other half it was going for oil. I ran a chain around the three point arms and put a ratchet binder on it to keep the arms tight instead of "v" ing out the balls, when I got done I had to use a file to round out the cat 2 balls so I could use my bale mover. Pulling the pins up top so the three point floats doesn't help. BTDT
Nate

IHCPloughman · Apr 25, 2011

I don't get why you say this 3-pt system doesn't work for plowing. Does it not have a float position for the lift arms? You don't need draft control for plowing, but you do need the cylinders to be able to float.

Jim Becker · Apr 25, 2011

Extend the lines determined by the hitch links forward to the points they intersect. Each of these points, one horizontal and one vertical, are the virtual hitch points of the plow. The points are in the wrong places.

James Williams · Apr 25, 2011

Someone mentioned draft control which I dont quite understand If I want to plow 8 in I want to plow 8 in.Ive seen a lot of these farmers that say they plow 8 in but its more like 5-6 inches.

jimmy

WY JERRY · Apr 25, 2011

The shaft of the plow that connects to the lift arms can be removed and the shoulders machined back another half inch or so to allow the pins to go through.

IHCPloughman · Apr 25, 2011

(quoted from post at 01:18:45 04/26/11) Extend the lines determined by the hitch links forward to the points they intersect. Each of these points, one horizontal and one vertical, are the virtual hitch points of the plow. The points are in the wrong places.

Wrong how? It looks like the two lower links are converging at the front, so the horizontal hitch point is fine. And if they aren't, what would it do? The plow would probably wander side to side a bit. I bet you could lock the lower links in and be OK as long as they are pointing straight ahead. You can't lock the lower links in place trying to force the plow over. That would be bad news.

As for the vertical hitch point: that is nothing some fabrication can't take care of. In the one picture of the plow resting on the ground it looks like both top and bottom links are fairly horizontal which would make them run uphill to the tractor when the plow is in the ground. If that makes the vertical hitch point too high, some simple plates welded on the headstock to raise the hole where the top link attaches to the plow would fix that.

Anonymous-0 · Apr 25, 2011

if you need a tractor advisor, what are you doing with a tractor??

Jim Becker · Apr 25, 2011

(quoted from post at 22:20:17 04/25/11)

(quoted from post at 01:18:45 04/26/11) Extend the lines determined by the hitch links forward to the points they intersect. Each of these points, one horizontal and one vertical, are the virtual hitch points of the plow. The points are in the wrong places.

Click to expand...

ou would run into problems like George Rausch described in the "mounted plow" thread. http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?t=764581

As for the vertical hitch point: that is nothing some fabrication can't take care of. In the one picture of the plow resting on the ground it looks like both top and bottom links are fairly horizontal which would make them run uphill to the tractor when the plow is in the ground. If that makes the vertical hitch point too high, some simple plates welded on the headstock to raise the hole where the top link attaches to the plow would fix that.

Click to expand...

The upper and lower links are too close to parallel as they are now. With this wrong, you end up with the problem Gene Bender was describing earlier in this thread. Yeah, if you do enough cutting, welding, drilling and fiddling with things, you would probably get things close enough to work. Again, as I said earlier in this thread, it doesn't make a lot of sense to booger up a plow that worked perfectly well when used properly just to try to make it work on a half baked hitch. It would make a lot more sense to buy something that was properly engineered in the first place.

Google has made it pretty easy to find patent descriptions. If you want details on how the linkage should work, you can read some of the early Ferguson patent applications.

gene bender · Apr 26, 2011

I agree i guess its the new thing to have an advisor when you buy a tractor or an implement to go with it. Reading these posts there sure is a need for one.

Anonymous-0 · Apr 26, 2011

You will not get a CAT 1 plough without a depth wheel work on a tractor with CAT 2 linkage and no deph control. Get a CAT 2 plough with a depth wheel. MJ. (champion ploughman).

mkirsch · Apr 26, 2011

Well, sounds like you're going to try it no matter what anyone says.

Make sure you post pictures of the results. Heck, maybe you can make it work. Good luck.

Yooper Farmall · Apr 26, 2011

Whatever I want to.

jayson-ia · Apr 29, 2011

What if your advisor doesn't have a clue what he is doing?

Yooper Farmall · May 11, 2011

What if you don"t?

IH fan · May 11, 2011

An add on 3 point like that is certainly not the ideal situation, but if your ground is level and reasonably smooth, it should be able to be set up to plow. If the front of your tractor is going to be up and down on uneven ground..... well, it may not look pretty, but depending on how rough it is, [u:750e2dab67]may[/u:750e2dab67] still be okay. If your living depended on a good plowing job in varying conditions, you would be in trouble.

Yooper Farmall · May 24, 2011

Plow worked great Gene, guess you really screwed up on that one.

Bought a Dearborn Plow

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

New User

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Similar threads