I completed an in frame overhaul on my 560 d282. Got her to the point where I could start it. I fired it up and it cleaned up in a few seconds and sounded great. smooth idle, crisp sound to the motor and so on. Was happy with a job well done that was until I bumped it up to about 1/3 throttle. It still runs good-clean exhaust but I can hear what I think is a knock. put her back to idle and it goes away. stopped it re adjusted the valves and tried her again. Sounds good till you bump it up to 1/3 throttle- it still sounds good but I can hear something. I bumped it up a little more a couple times and it sounds more isolated or more distinct with more throttle. It almost sounds like one piston is slapping or one rod is knocking. Its not distcit enough where I'm sure that is what it is. Can the one exhaust port which comes out right at the exhaust stack make it sound like a knock bouncing off the steel ceiling? (I'm grasping for straws here) I did not pull out the crank or cam during the work but everything speced out close enough for a wagon puller and light loader work so I replaced the rod and main bearings,wrist pins, pistons, sleeves, rings. I did not test or replace the injectors but pulled them out and replaced the seal between the injector and precombustion chamber along with dust seals. The only thing I did not do is the head. I took it to a local race shop where he fuxed it put in 12 valves and resurfaced it. I did not doudble check his work. But now I'm questioning everything. Not blaming him tho... I'm sure its something I did or did not do. just could not afford to have someone do the work for me. any ideas on where to look? I dont know where to start. Tried using a piece of wood as a stetha scope but cant even find were it is coming from. I had to go through the motor because the motor pulled a sleeve down. Any ideas would be great. Pull the oil pan? pull apart all the caps and reasemble? pull the head? Start all over again? sell for scrap? Any ideas would help.

pull pan plastigage all bearing clearances will probably find problem then

I think you should've pulled the crankshaft and had a good auto machine shop to measure it for wear and have them furnish the correct bearings.
You should have had them install your wrist pins too. Some of those engines need to be line bored. I did a Chevy 283 block back in the 1970's and it came up with a noise. We installed the wrist pins on the new pistons at work and the engine started making a noise and a piston was cracked near the wrist pin. When I did a Chevy 2.5L in the late 90's I had our local auto machine shop to install the new pistons on the rods. I bought their new pistons too. No problem with that engine. Hal

will do, gotta start somewhere

Get out the stethoscope or long handled screwdriver and see if you can isolate it.

Mine will sound like a knock from 20 feet away but it's just fuel knock as my injectors leak a bit under pressure.

How did that new sleeve fit in the bore where the old sleeve came down? If it is loose, there is your knock.

(quoted from post at 07:39:39 04/21/11) How did that new sleeve fit in the bore where the old sleeve came down? If it is loose, there is your knock.

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Good point here. Also looked at one someone else OH'd and got a rod cap backwards. Knocked similar to what you describe.

Im with Teddy52food on this one. I suspect its a sleeve, and probley the same one that came down on you. Id check that.

(quoted from post at 07:39:39 04/21/11) How did that new sleeve fit in the bore where the old sleeve came down? If it is loose, there is your knock.

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Didn't some of the IH built engines have one ot two of the bores that were not a standard size? And I think those bores were marked with a mark of some kind stamped into the top of the block right next to the non-standard bore? If that is what it is, the standard issue, over-the-counter sleeve and piston kit will not fit. You may need to visit Case-IH to get the correct sleeve.