Painting cast iron wheels

Yooper Farmall · Apr 19, 2011

I've restored a few cars years ago and always sandblasted or sanded down to bare metal first.

Attached is a picture of my H, the previous owner had done a basic so-so paint job but didn't paint any of the cast iron wheel centers. I'm replacing the rims.

I've been told that there is no reason to remove the rims and sand blast the cast iron wheel centers, just spend a few minutes with a Scotch sanding pad and paint right over the old paint and brown rust. He said as long as there is no flaking paint, you won't notice the difference between painting these and a sand-blasted cast iron center.

Sand blast and prime with a self etching primer?
Prime with an epoxy primer and paint?
Just scuff them and paint?
Thoughts?

Thoughts?

sflem849 · Apr 19, 2011

I would buy a battery box, sandblast, prime, and paint. If you want a "parade ready" finish (which it sounds like you have on the rest of the tractor) you could scuff and paint them. That rust will show through eventually if you don't blast it.
Did you like how I slipped that batter box comment in there. :lol:

Yooper Farmall · Apr 19, 2011

Yeah, saw the battery box comment right away

Purchased the battery box with lid 2 months ago, now that I have new rims, tires, and working on breaking off the bolt rim clamp bolts and wire brushing the clamps, the battery box installation is next.

I'm disappointed, I thought you'd catch the decal error and point it out to me.

GordoSD · Apr 19, 2011

You don't want to paint the centers on the tractor anyway. Take them to the nearest sandblaster on whatever little trailer you have. I like to smooth up the outer face of the spokes a little with a 60 grit flap wheel on an angle grinder. Thenblow and wipe clean. Then epoxy primer and top coat.
You might also give that load and idle screws a quarte turn leaner. Looks like you are running pretty rich at idle.

Gordo

Anonymous-0 · Apr 19, 2011

Hey, LOTS of folks put the letter on the grille instead of on the hood...not correct, but it's common to see.

sflem849 · Apr 19, 2011

...I'm disappointed, I thought you'd catch the decal error and point it out to me.

I looked right past it. I saw the battery hanging out there on a bright shiny tractor and thought what a shame. I think they look goofy with the battery out in the middle of nowhere.

You could probably use a heat gun to take the H off. Not with a water transfer, but not many people use them anymore. I would guess it is probably a TSC type kit. On something like that the heat gun would work fine. Then call up Maple Hunter and get a couple Hs and throw them in the correct spot.

Yooper Farmall · Apr 19, 2011

Ha! already a step aheadofya sflem849, I picked up set of the "H" emblems, I think they were about $4. The old ones look like they will peel right off. When I repaint the entire tractor I'll probably get a mylar set.

GordoSD · Apr 19, 2011

Is that an original IH Muffler?

Yooper Farmall · Apr 19, 2011

I got it at Steiners, they had two mufflers available, one was around $30 and this one was closer to $50 and was supposed to be close to original equipment as far as look and sound. I think it might have been made by Stanley.

Loren in WI · Apr 19, 2011

You need to blast it then epoxy prime them then top coat them. Any thing less than that dont waste your time and resources. Covering up rust with paint is like taking asprin for cancer. Dont waste your time do it right. Been a body man for 25 years now.

Yooper Farmall · Apr 19, 2011

But are the rust properties of cast iron much different than body panel steel?

rustyfarmall · Apr 19, 2011

The paint on those cast centers is far enough gone there is no need to sandblast or anything else. Use some mineral spirits to get all the oil and grease off, and then go out and buy a GOOD quality soft bristled brush, open a quart can of IH 2150 and have at it. Raise the rear wheels off the ground so you can spin them by hand. Paint the outside of one wheel, move to the inside of that same wheel, and then go right back to the outside of the same wheel again, and then to the inside. Cast iron soaks up a LOT of paint, so it will take 3 or maybe even 4 coats of paint to get those wheels bright red and glossy, but it CAN be done with a brush, and the results will be equal to if not better than if you sandblasted and painted with a gun. Just keep the mineral spirits and a nice soft rag handy to wipe the dribbles before they can dry.

Yooper Farmall · Apr 19, 2011

This is what he was saying, that the way rust interacts with iron is different than steel. It seemed counter intuitive to me, because I've done auto body panel work on steel and if you painted over rust, it rusted through right away. I am hearing with cast iron you can completely strip it, set it out and let it brown over with rust and that is a good base to paint over. Yes, this is different than everything I've heard about steel, but is it the case?

You mentioned brushing the paint on, I assumed a spray gun would be best/easiest, any advantages to a brush? Of course the tractor would have to be completely covered in drop cloths.

I apprciate your advice.

rustyfarmall · Apr 19, 2011

(quoted from post at 13:35:47 04/19/11) This is what he was saying, that the way rust interacts with iron is different than steel. It seemed counter intuitive to me, because I've done auto body panel work on steel and if you painted over rust, it rusted through right away. I am hearing with cast iron you can completely strip it, set it out and let it brown over with rust and that is a good base to paint over. Yes, this is different than everything I've heard about steel, but is it the case?

You mentioned brushing the paint on, I assumed a spray gun would be best/easiest, any advantages to a brush? Of course the tractor would have to be completely covered in drop cloths.

I apprciate your advice.

I use a brush on all the cast iron parts. Like I said, cast iron will soak up a LOT of paint, and using a brush will let you lay the paint on THICK. Using a GOOD brush on cast iron will NOT leave brush marks.

Rich'sToys · Apr 19, 2011

I use one of those 50 cent foam rubber brushes. You can sort of dab the second coat on. Gets it on nice and thick, and no brush marks. It probably takes a little longer than spraying, but uses less paint while getting it on thicker at the same time.
The rough surface of cast iron makes it pretty forgiving. You could almost paint it with a broom and it would still look nice!

Fawteen · Apr 19, 2011

And whatever you do, never, EVER drive it anywhere that you might get poop on the tires!

Al L. in Wisc. · Apr 19, 2011

="Yooper Farmall"; I'd quick run out to the garage and put a stop to that feller' tryin' ta hot wire your H first. Then I'd make him paint the ceiling a color that wouldn't show the 'low clearance ceiling/door=muffler stains" as punishment for trying to steal that H w/the misplaced decal. My 7' garage door = muffler removal for the Farmall 460. Wish I would have shown more interest when my dad was alive and doing full restorations on old cars and his tractors...coulda' learned a lot. I hadn't thought about cast being 'thirsty'.

CNKS · Apr 19, 2011

Take off the rims and wheels, sandblast them, prime with epoxy primer and topcoat. Etch primer has NO place on a tractor. The sheet metal is always sanded, making etch redundant. On cast it is not likely, but possible that it will get in the pores and lift the paint. Epoxy is better anyway. I don't brush anything. Why mess with a brush, when I can spray paint it? As to the muffler, I doubt if it has the original sound. Only two aftermarket companies made those, and both are no longer in business, as far as I know. I have 2 of them from Marks Tractors, he is one of the two -- does not answer the phone, from me or anyone else. Carter and Gruenewald also had them made, they claim they can no longer get the manufacturer to do them. If Steiner has them, those have the original dimensions, and are made by OEM Tractor Parts, they do not have the sound.

Anonymous-0 · Apr 19, 2011

Are you sure that the tractor is the correct shade of red? Looks a few shades off to me. I'd strip the whole tractor, and start from scratch. Maybe check the tread pattern on the tires, too. Not sure if it's original to that model of tractor.

Tom Fleming · Apr 20, 2011

I have had good success with the following: sandblast or wirewheel to bare metal, degrease/clean, apply Permatex Rust converter, prime, topcoat. I have used this on both cast iron and steel parts with the same success. Primer and topcoat/clear coat of your choice.

I am no way near a body repair expert, but have had good success with the above. The Permatex rust converter is great stuff, and is NOT a primer, but will get into all the little places and micro pits to convert and seal the rust. It is an extra step, and a bit pricey, but have had zero issues with under paint rust occurring.

F-Dean · Apr 20, 2011

Her's what I'd do:
1. Put her on blocks and take the rims off -- plenty of blocks to make sure she's stable.
2. Slide the cast iron centers all the way out.
3. Use E-85 (cheapest and easy to use if you don't smoke!) to remove the grease and oil.
4. Clean with a wire brusn on a angle grinder -- best paint remover. Thanks to this forum.
5. Put cheap shower curtins aroung the trans-axle and other close parts.
6. Paint with a rattle-can.

mkirsch · Apr 20, 2011

I'm disappointed, I thought you'd catch the decal error and point it out to me.

You put the H decal in the wrong place... Feel better?

I didn't do anything special on the wheel castings when I painted my H. Like all the other cast, I simply went over it with a wire wheel to knock off the old paint and dust, and to feather out the paint that was still stuck on.

I shot them with the same paint and gun at the same time as the rest of the tractor.

Painting cast iron wheels

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