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How big of a 3pt disc can my H handle?

Y

Yooper Farmall

Member
I"m shopping for a 2 bottom 3pt plow and a 3pt disc for my Farmall H. I"ve got a Saginaw 3pt that weights about 350lbs? and no wheel or frame weights in the front.

I saw a previous post where someone said they sold a 3pt disc because it made the H"s front wheels too light.

How much weight can it handle? Trying to figure out if I can use a 4", 5" or 6" disc. I"m making food plots in the woods, so not a big deal if the disc isn"t as wide as the rear wheels.
 
(quoted from post at 06:54:06 04/15/11) I"m shopping for a 2 bottom 3pt plow and a 3pt disc for my Farmall H. I"ve got a Saginaw 3pt that weights about 350lbs? and no wheel or frame weights in the front.

I saw a previous post where someone said they sold a 3pt disc because it made the H"s front wheels too light.

How much weight can it handle? Trying to figure out if I can use a 4", 5" or 6" disc. I"m making food plots in the woods, so not a big deal if the disc isn"t as wide as the rear wheels.
Click to expand...

The add on 3 point hitches do not have any depth or load control. You won't be happy with a mounted 2 bottom plow. A 6' disc might work if you add enough ballast to the front of the tractor. Even a 4' or 5' disc will require ballast. You would be much happier with a non 3 point mounted plow or disc.
 
Hmmm that's not good news. I'll be running between 4 pieces of property on pavement, one property is a good 10 miles away, I'll likely trade performance for easy of travel.
Maybe the first step would be to try discing up the plots and see if I can get by without a plow.
 

For working individual beds you might be happier with a chisel
plow and rototiller. You can get these with their own guage
wheels or skids to control depth. I agree with Rusty that you will
have trouble with a 3pt plow although I think IH did make a
mounted plow for the H if you can find one.
 
Even though you will not have draft control,you can still use a 3pt plow by useing stroke control blocks on the cylinders .they will hold the plow at a consistant depth.Do not try to plow without them.Dont ask how I know that....Go with a 6ft disk
 
I use both a trailer plow and wheel disk behind the SMTA and I would not trade back to 3 pt. On the Ford I have a a 2 bottom and 5' disk that are both 3 pt and both are challenging to get on the tractor. As long as the implement drawbars are tight at the connections you can move pretty good over roads without a lot of sway. A come-along will take out most of the sway if it is a problem.
 
i INOW THIS IS heresy, but I was lucky years ago to fine a real used JD 812 / 813 2-bottom plow, with integral depth wheel. The wheel slides and and down, on a bar shaft, and pins in at whatever depth you want. wORKS LIKE A CHAMP. 3-point too. Running a JD plow on a IH H with a custom 3-point hitch, I had to invent a turn-buckle to keep it at 14" from thei inside wheel.
But it all works.
 
Disc-- It would depend on the weight of the disc and how far behind the tractor your hitch extends. I have a 6-1/2' King Kutter disc behind a 25HP FarmPro and it works well. I have seen several 8' Dearborn Disc. I think they were used on the 8Ns.
I too have been thinking of getting a 3-Pt Plow. I thought to control the depth, I would try to find one with a gauge wheel.
I wouldn't take either one down the road though. When I was a kid, a twelve year old neighbor friend was killed with a 3-Pt disc behind a Ford 8N. He came to a bridge. When he hit the first plank, the front end bounced up. He lost control and he flipped into the creek.
When using farm equipment, you always have to be thinking ahead. You may not have a chance to have an after thought.
 
I'm going 10 miles down pavement in high gear, the front wheel bouncing isn't an option, I'm going to have to use front wheel weights and frame weights.
 
I have a saginaw hitch on my H and 8' birch 3pth disk. I add a farmall cast rear wheel weight on the disk to help it cut. I run it several miles down the road every year in 5th gear wide open. It is definately lighter on the front end, but not uncomfortable for me on the road. Sometimes it takes a little brake to help steer when you pick the disk up on the end in 3rd gear. I've used the disk without the added weight on it and front end lightness was not an issue at all then, but it doesn't cut up plowed sod near as well. HTH. Greg
 
I would look into getting a hydraulic lift pull type plow & disk, and use the original drawbar, they work much better than a 3 point, the issue with a 3 point is when you hit a rock or tree root, going over backwards isn't condusive to good plowing or disk work, the pull type equipment comes with a "break-away" tongued hitch and if you get the later models already on rubber tires, and you can run down any road.
 
Adjusting a plow to work will be easy enough to make it a good option. All equipment works well when set correctly. I have worked 2 point plows on 300s 350 350U and 400 and 3 points on other tractors including a M with a home made 3point. Adjustment was just that. Do it and sense you are not making a 300 acre issue it will be just fine.
A 7' disk is all it will want. 250 pounds on the front will help, the 300 got a little light with an 8' disk, and it was really more than it needed.
Jim
 
We used a 7' Fast Hitch disc on a Super C, so a 7 or 8' should be fine on an H if adjusted properly. You may want some weight on the the front when traveling at speed on the road, just to be safe.
 
I've got a 7.5' disk. I'll find out in a week or so if the H can handle it, since I finally got the 3pt. hitch on the tractor. The disk is around 1000 lbs, but my Allis WD can handle it, so I would assume the H will do fine with it, also. I'll post a few pics when I try it.
 
If all you are doing is food plots, all you need is a disk. I have a Farmall 504 and I use a MF 10' pull disc. An 8' pull disc would be an ideal match up. I have serrated front blades and smooth rear blades. It will chop up about anything. I have a about 600-700 lbs of additional weight as well.

CT
 
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