worm gear destroyed the cap? What now?

Cliff Grosberg · Apr 10, 2011

My Farmall 300 had the steering worm gear punch right out the threaded cap on the front of the bolster! Has anybody found a method of removing the remaining threads, so that I can get a new cap on? Also, what allowed the worm to move forward anyhow, and how do I keep that from happening again?

GordoSD · Apr 10, 2011

Are both locking collars on the steering shaft at the pedestal?
Can you get a narrow blade of a sawsall in there and cut carefully through that remaining thread ring?

Cliff Grosberg · Apr 11, 2011

Locking Collars??? I only have looked at the front (where the damage is) so far, but If I turn the steering column with a wrench, the whole thing moves forward as the worm engages the gear. There is nothing of the cap left to stop the forward motion. Would these locking collars be right behind the bolster? My mind can only visulaize them (as being there) to hold the steering column from moving into the bolster.

mkirsch · Apr 11, 2011

There are no locking collars to hold the steering shaft like that.

There is a bearing mounted on the front end of the steering shaft, and the cap holds that bearing in place. Nothing should be grinding on that cap.

It sounds like that bearing has failed. Either siezed or completely collapsed.

How much of the plug is actually left? Does any of it protrude from the front of the gearbox?

Perhaps you can drive it around in a circle using a hammer and cold chisel. All you need to do is get it moving. It's a tapered thread and will spin out as soon as it loosens.

Dellbertt · Apr 11, 2011

Did it steer hard before this happened?
I was thinking that if something was froze or binding in the steering from the tires to the box (like spindles or linkage) it would cause the shaft worm to move instead of the gear.

Dell

Cliff Grosberg · Apr 11, 2011

OK, I could not see any sort of locking collar when I started looking at the damage! All I could see of any sort of bearing was 5 balls about 3/8"diameter that came oozing out of the grease, through the HOLE that used to be the cap!!! I figured a failed bearing was my problem, but did not want to try and take it apart until I knew for sure. I did try using a hammer and flat tipped punch to move the remainder of the nut (to see if I cold loosen it), but only took more chips off the remaining cap assembly. That is when I found this site, and decided to ask for ideas. If I want to remove the bolster, to work on things, can I just "screw" the worm gear out by turning the steering column, OR do I need to remove the matching gear first? It also looks like I can only access the bolts that hold the bolster in place from the bottom..... how many should I find when disassembling that part? Thanks for the help/ideas everybody!!!

GordoSD · Apr 11, 2011

The two collars are way back at the pedestal where the light bar is mounted.
You need to disconnect the forward steering shaft from the rear section at the u-joint just forward of the gauges.

rustyfarmall · Apr 11, 2011

(quoted from post at 07:45:27 04/11/11) The two collars are way back at the pedestal where the light bar is mounted.
You need to disconnect the forward steering shaft from the rear section at the u-joint just forward of the gauges.

Gordo, move ahead a few years. The 300 does not have those locking collars, nor does it have a headlight bar.

rustyfarmall · Apr 11, 2011

(quoted from post at 05:12:50 04/11/11) There are no locking collars to hold the steering shaft like that.

There is a bearing mounted on the front end of the steering shaft, and the cap holds that bearing in place. Nothing should be grinding on that cap.

It sounds like that bearing has failed. Either siezed or completely collapsed.

How much of the plug is actually left? Does any of it protrude from the front of the gearbox?

Perhaps you can drive it around in a circle using a hammer and cold chisel. All you need to do is get it moving. It's a tapered thread and will spin out as soon as it loosens.

Exactly!! There is supposed to be a ball bearing on the very end of the shaft, just ahead of the worm gear. That big pipe plug holds the bearing in place. New plugs are readily available, as are the bearings. The bearing is a #6205 size. If you use your tractor a lot, you might want to get the bearing from Case-IH because that one will be rated for the side thrust it is subjected to. If you don't want to spend that much money, and the tractor does not get used a lot, you can substitute a common 6205 bearing for less than $10? Don't quote me on the price as I need to look it up to say for sure.

Janicholson · Apr 11, 2011

This gentilman knows me and came to see me on this issue. He didn't know I was a contributor here, and found YT on his own. From illustrations in his manual, and chalk talk on a slate board, it is under control. Thanks to all. Jim

Cliff Grosberg · Apr 11, 2011

The "tractor Guru" strikes again! Jim and I had a wonderful discussion on my problem, and he gave me several tips and general overall good ideas. Thanks to everybody who responded, and to Jim.

pete 23 · Apr 11, 2011

Good grief guys, the ball bearing is a special thrust bearing(which for a ball bearing is not all that easy to acomplish) and it withstands the for and aft force and is held in with the cap. Those collars on the rear shaft near steering wheel are just on keep you from pulling the steering wheel off in you hands like Laurel and Hardy used to do when someone asked them to give them the wheel when driveing. The 300 and 400 etc had one collar in front of steering wheel support assembly.

GordoSD · Apr 11, 2011

Well hell, it oughtta.

I got so involved with the fix I forgot to read the problem

worm gear destroyed the cap? What now?

Cliff Grosberg

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