Trucker101
Member
I am thinking about buying this IAC Tractor. The serial num is 11056SJ can someone tell me the year?
b:24a432310e][color=darkred:24a432310e]Thanks all for the replies.Sorry I never said thanks before now. Had some work & health issues to take care of.(quoted from post at 18:43:43 01/07/11) You have a mid 1955 IHC International Harvester Co.
300 Utility. It is painted to match the color scheme of a 350 tractor. The tractor looks pretty clean. The J in the number means it had a Rockford Clutch (somewhat heavier duty) when it was built, and probably has a similar clutch in it now. They are nice. Jim
size=24:6ab62d56b9][/size:6ab62d56b9](quoted from post at 20:25:23 04/04/11) [size=18:6ab62d56b9]b:6ab62d56b9][color=darkred:6ab62d56b9]Thanks all for the replies.Sorry I never said thanks before now. Had some work & health issues to take care of.(quoted from post at 18:43:43 01/07/11) You have a mid 1955 IHC International Harvester Co.
300 Utility. It is painted to match the color scheme of a 350 tractor. The tractor looks pretty clean. The J in the number means it had a Rockford Clutch (somewhat heavier duty) when it was built, and probably has a similar clutch in it now. They are nice. Jim
But now it's broke down. I've only used it 1 1/2 times :lol: 1st time no problems. 2nd time I sprung a HYD oil leak. I was trying to move some snow when hyd fluid started pouring out of where the last plate that bolts to the block at the pump & pump to the plate. I've including some photos to show better what I need to do. What I'm worried about is setting the timing when I'm putting it all back together.[/b:6ab62d56b9]
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On the photo below[b:6ab62d56b9] "A"[/b:6ab62d56b9] is the plate I need to replace the gasket in I think.
[b:6ab62d56b9]"B"[/b:6ab62d56b9] & [b:6ab62d56b9]"C"[/b:6ab62d56b9]; Once I got the whole unit off of the block I found 4 more bolts holding the 2 plates together, but all 4 bolts inside(hidden) were very loose & I could turn them by hand to take them out. The heads were sunk below the mating face & below the drive gear. Anyway, how do I set the timing once I got it all fixed up? [b:6ab62d56b9]Is there a web address or something I could get instructions at? Thanks for any help.[/b:6ab62d56b9]
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hanks, I kind of thought it looked good to. So I bought it. It's a plus that it runs really good too. Always starts up on first turn over. But it doesn't have power steering? But maybe it's supposed to? Please tell me what you saw that makes you think it has power steering. I would REALLY LIKE to have that, as I have a arm thats not working too good. I'm going to include some photos, maybe you could point out what you saw as PS. I'll be asking some questions with some of the photos to.(quoted from post at 08:05:57 01/08/11) I meant to tell you what a fine looking machine that is.
The clean and simple lines look good. The clean way it bolts to the bolster and the way the side rails line up with the foot rests is a sign of good engineering.
I also notice it has power steering which is a plus.
I hope it runs as good as it looks.
Dell
(quoted from post at 14:18:58 04/07/11) there should be timing marks on the gears for you to line things up correctly, just make sure your number one cylinder is at TDC and things should line up for you.
Yes thanks, thats why I'm taking it apart.that spot where your leak is coming from is probably sealed with an O-ring and I would recomend that you replace it before putting it back together , or you may find it leaking again real soon.
hanks for the help & Ideas. I was able to come up with a easy [i:6f09e9e6cf]for me[/i:6f09e9e6cf] way to get it all back together & running. Yes, YEAH it's running again.(quoted from post at 15:35:51 04/07/11) The timing marks are on the front of the gears. With a small mirror you can locate the mark and add your own to the back of the gear tooth to match them up.
Since you have a distributor instead of a magneto you really don't have to worry about the marks. Assemble the pump to the engine. The gear/shaft in the distributor adapter will slide out and can be turned to what you need to get the timing correct.
The easiest way is to remove the distributor from the adapter and install the adapter to the hydraulic pump, Turn the engine until it is at TDC on number 1 cylinder on the compression stroke. Line up the rotor with the number 1 tower on the cap and install the distributor.
Okay, that makes sense, [b:42eb220e85][i:42eb220e85]Thanks[/i:42eb220e85][/b:42eb220e85] I never climbed under it to look, It's still to wet here. I was thinking it was a diff lock of some sort, so I was pushing the clutch pedal & trying to work it up & down.(quoted from post at 19:31:12 04/09/11) That rod is to lock the brakes on to serve as a parking brake. Pull up on the rod, then push down on the brake pedals. You will feel the ratchet catch the brake pedal and hold it down. To release, push down on the brake pedal, and the rod will fall back down.
kay, thanks Dell. I was hoping it did have PS. Darn! LOL(quoted from post at 10:05:36 04/10/11) Lines A and B are the throttle governor. I thought I saw PS lines coming from under the dash cowling (steering wheel) back to the hydraulic reservoir (under the seat). I guess I was mistaken, sorry.
Dell
f the three gauges across the top 1st left is water temp,2nd is amps,3rd is oil psi(quoted from post at 15:29:15 04/10/11) You may be correct but with the water icon fishes floating around I think it would more than likely be a water temp gauge.
All the gauges are available from IH and several aftermarket folks.
Good luck,
Dell
? it could be, but the number 3 is in the 5 O'clock spot & 21 at 8 O'clock & 18 at 7 O'clock?(quoted from post at 17:30:35 04/10/11)
if i aint mistakened what your calling a vaccum guage is actually your tach.
Thanks, Now I know I got to fix it up. Thats a very cool looking tach.(quoted from post at 18:36:07 04/10/11)
well i did the research for you on this site and went to the parts section found the 300u and i found this picwhich is a tach
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