I completed an in-frame overhaul on my 560 d282 and had to split the tractor to put in a rear main seal and a clutch job (have not put the seal in yet and flywheel is being machined). Can you replace the rear main bearing without removing the crank? If so what needs to be done? My IT book is a little light on info regarding this subject. Can a guy pull off the cap without removing the engine plate and spin those bearings out and in?
- Thread starter NolanJae
- Start date
Bill in NJ
Member
Not sure if I would want to replace the bearing without removing the crank. First question is, why are you replacing the bearing? If you are replacing it because of suspected wear, how would you know what size bearing to put in it. on top of that how would you know what damage, if any, has been done to the crank. Seems to me if you have done all the other work and you want the job done correctly you would want to regrind the crank and install a complete set of correct size bearings. JMHO.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
I think yes is the answer. If it is upside down, plastigauge can determine if things are close to tollerance. If crank down, it is necessary to hold the crank upwards to assure you are measuring the gap, not the weight on the bearing. Be sure to check the clearance at 1/4 turn intervals to be sure it is not egg shaped.
Also be willing to admit it is out of spec if it is more than .001 out of round. Jim
Also be willing to admit it is out of spec if it is more than .001 out of round. Jim
teddy52food
Well-known Member
I use a copper rivet in the oil hole & turn the crank so the rivet contacts the side away from the tab. Install the other way.
I really rather hate doing things the correct way. Seems much funner putting a month of time and 1500 on parts into a tractor and watch it blow up. I should have taken a second loan to pay for an overhaul in a shop. I'll step out on a limb here and put it this way. Do you have a 560 282? When you rebuild yours I bet mine last as long as yours does and I'll do it the wrong way. I just wanted to know if it could be done. Thanks for the input.
Sure you can put them in from the bottom. It is not the best way of course, but then not everything is done the best way. One does what one has to do at the time. I am not a plasti gauge guy but if you do use it to check clearance, you need to support the crank. Easiest way is to remove cap next in line and put a piece of carboard or for a shim and tighten cap down, this will hold crank up against top so you get a better reading with the plastigauge. I prefer to use different thickness of shim stock for checking clearances, about half inch wide and length of bearing and tighten cap down and check drag. More accurate. Of course, not all agree. On that rear cap you have to use alignment dowels(anything that fits the groove nice) and a little dab of sealer on parting line of cap to block. If you have groove in crank where seal rides you can leave seal out just a hair but not so far it touches flywheel. There is also a speedy sleeve available at some parts suppliers like HY-Cap.
You can as stated with the copper rivet idea. I did this on my 706 gasser. That being said please measure the journals 1st. After I installed the new main bearings I found that one of the rod journals was out of spec. I had to take it out any way for a regrind.
My Farmall web site.
My Farmall web site.
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