A exhaust manifold outlet threads stripped

Sam F.

New User
Is there a way to repair the threads on the exhaust manifold so I can screw in the pipe to attach a new muffler ??? Or another fix ????
 
I have seen many welded, but they always look bad and come loose over time. (bad weld jobs)
A better option would be to find someone with a pipe tap to clean up the threads (it is regular pipe threads).
I say find someone because a tap that size would be expensive.
 
If you can't find a tap, hacksaw about six or eight slots in the threads of another pipe like a tap would have. Get your pipe wrench and some valve lapping compound and work it back and forth. It isn't fast but it works, a tap would work better.
 
a plummer or machine shop should be able to help you-----tap the manifold { 2inch tap]then have him thread a 2in.pipe not as deep as standard--or only thread it about 1 inch
 
Once you get the threads fixed....add some oil to the threads on the pipe before you tighten it. Get it VERY tight(use a "cheater" bar).

You do not want the pipe to vibrate loose and cause the same problem you have now.
 
So very common that dirt understands. Yep happens and is talked about all the time. Many ways are said to fix. A pipe tap if you can find one that size and then afford it. A pipe the correct size and JB weld is another way. A good machine shop with the correct tape. Or the correct size pipe then cut slits in it for say the first 1/2 inch or so clean then p and screw it in and hope. Or the same as I just said and hi temp JB weld etc
 
I had to weld two of mine 504,farmall cub. Did the cub about 10 years ago still holds and looks good.On both the threads were so bad you could just push the pipe in without turning.
 
I had the manifold retapped by a plumber as mentioned below, but the threads still were not very good as the old pipe had pretty much worn them away. I had a "fresh pipe" cut and new threads cut on it then turned the pipe in with steel wool wrapped around the pipe to make it even tighter. It held for about 5 years then I finally had to spring for new manifold - they aren't that expensive.

The pipes I've seen welded in don't last long especially if the tractor is seeing lots of field work.
 
My factory manifold on my 1966 140 had the ears with bolt holes as well as the internal pipe thread. When the threads wore out due to many years of mowing under trees, I just went to NAPA and got a bolt-on flange and a short extension. Popped a round NAPA muffler on top and I've been running that way for 20 years. Not original, but it looks and works fine. Plus the damage is less when you hit the next tree limb.
 
IH service departments used to have a tap for repairing exhaust manifolds. Did you check with you local Case IH Dealer service department?
 
I had mine welded on my SMTA. Take it to a (good) shop and you are good to go. You can't weld it as home as good as they can do it. A tap was never going to make mine work again.
 
(quoted from post at 23:46:53 03/31/11) Once you get the threads fixed....add some oil to the threads on the pipe before you tighten it. Get it VERY tight(use a "cheater" bar).

You do not want the pipe to vibrate loose and cause the same problem you have now.

It also helps to run the engine under load before installing the new pipe to heat the manifold. With the manifold hot and the pipe cold you can get it installed tighter.
 
must have been a GREAT weld job to hold up that long.
Some folks think they can weld and really can't.
I know I can't weld anything important ...
 
(quoted from post at 17:23:26 04/01/11) must have been a GREAT weld job to hold up that long.
Some folks think they can weld and really can't.
I know I can't weld anything important ...

There are a lot of things out there that are better than high nickel rods. Super Missle Rod is the one I can think of but there is a new one he switched to after that.
 
Tap the manifold first I think it will be a 2 inch NPT tap. Then get a new pipe, but put on a condoit lock then thread it in and set the lock with a cold chisel. never come loose.
 

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