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Need help with plow id

S

sflem849

Well-known Member
What type of plow am I using? It is a IH 3-14 and that is about all I know. I know there is a lot of talk about Genius and Plow Chief and Super Chief and this and that. I don't really know all the fancy plow terms and never really got to wondering about what it is until now.

i51032.jpg

i51029.jpg

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(quoted from post at 16:51:42 03/29/11) I think it is a number 8 plow with BBA bottoms, but not 100% sure.
Click to expand...

BBA???

Why do the moldboards get worn like that? Improper settings or just normal wear?
 
You could order plows with different bottoms, BBA was one type. I've seen plows wear differently in different parts of the country. Newer plows have replacement shins to replace only the front part of the bottom.
 
The ones we had did wear like that, but the newer plows had shims as has been said. I am not sure you can get those points now but you can replace the entire plows with newer models that can get points for.
 
(quoted from post at 19:38:46 03/29/11)
(quoted from post at 16:51:42 03/29/11) I think it is a number 8 plow with BBA bottoms, but not 100% sure.
Click to expand...

BBA???

Why do the moldboards get worn like that? Improper settings or just normal wear?
Click to expand...
I have seen them wear like that in sandy soil.
 
That plow should have a lot of years left in it for what I do. I only plowed two acres last year. I am more worried about a coulter falling off than anything. The bearings are getting pretty bad in them. I should really take them all apart and clean them up. A couple of the bearing retainers are cracked/missing pieces. That isn't really great either.
 
#8 Little Genius. I doubt those are BBA bottoms. BBA used shins and they were a Chattanooga Plow Works product that was used primarily in the eastern US. Those are probably HSKA bottoms (high-speed general purpose). I would suggest running some weld beads over those pockets to save those moldboards. You have worn into the soft center and you're maybe all they to the hard surface of the back side. A little maintenance can prevent them from becoming junk or from making ugly repairs later on. You get those pockets filled in and it should scour better and the soil will flow across the board better. An inexpensive way to tighten coulter bearings is to buy new bolts and shim up the inner coulter hub with tin, or aluminum, or pop cans to make the inner hub snug against the bolt. Its not the proper way to do it, and it will wear quickly, but for low-use it will make the coulter nice and tight.
 
(quoted from post at 14:25:00 03/30/11) #8 Little Genius. I doubt those are BBA bottoms. BBA used shins and they were a Chattanooga Plow Works product that was used primarily in the eastern US. Those are probably HSKA bottoms (high-speed general purpose). I would suggest running some weld beads over those pockets to save those moldboards. You have worn into the soft center and you're maybe all they to the hard surface of the back side. A little maintenance can prevent them from becoming junk or from making ugly repairs later on. You get those pockets filled in and it should scour better and the soil will flow across the board better. An inexpensive way to tighten coulter bearings is to buy new bolts and shim up the inner coulter hub with tin, or aluminum, or pop cans to make the inner hub snug against the bolt. Its not the proper way to do it, and it will wear quickly, but for low-use it will make the coulter nice and tight.
Click to expand...

Cool tip on the bearings.

Would you use hard face rod or just regular rod?
 
Anything is better than nothing. I've only used normal rod like 6011. Depends on how expensive nickel rod is. You'll use quite a bit doing it. And I don't know how well it can ground down to be smooth.
 
(quoted from post at 20:02:04 03/30/11) Anything is better than nothing. I've only used normal rod like 6011. Depends on how expensive nickel rod is. You'll use quite a bit doing it. And I don't know how well it can ground down to be smooth.
Click to expand...

Gotcha, I didn't know you ground it back down to match the plow face. It probably wouldn't scour with rough weld right where the dirt first hits. If 6011 works I will probably use the MIG so I don't have to chip away at slag to get the next bead started.
 
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