farmall a sleaves

Hit them on the bottom with a block of wood & a hammer. They are just held in with a rubber-like o-ring.
Be sure to clean the groove in the block when installing the new o-rings. Lube with petroleum jelly an slide the new sleve in place.
 
I use a block of oak cut to fit and whack them a couple of good licks with a hammer. So far never had a problem getting them out. Then you have to clean up the area they go in and I use dish soap on them when I slide them back in
 
Depends on what you mean by tricks. Every one I know has a few they use and some work well some do not. Me it all depends on what engine I am doing and if I have the $$ to do it 100% correct or if I have to cut corners to do it. Biggest trick I know of it CLEAN every thing well, never touch a new part unless you have some sort of oil on your fingers, story there about the finger print and the rod bearing. I my self coat EVERY thing with STP oil treatment when assembling and engine. I have an engine block sitting right behind me in my office that when done will be about a $3000 Chev Pick up engine I am building for my son. It is going into a 1951 Chev pick up
 
A piece of 2 X 2 oak and a big hammer to tap on the oak when it's against the bottom lip of the sleeve. Be sure to clean that recessed area in the block where your sleeves sit at the top of the engine block. Hal
 
Old; I use to do the same thing for years coat them with stp.Until one time several years ago,I was rebuilding a 350 chevy. It was going well an when I torked the last rod you could"nt turn it over.Took the bottom apart cleaned the stp off,used 105 lubraplate.Worked fine,never used stp again.
 
Oh I have rebuilt many that when I was done I could not turn them over by hand but the starter spun them over just fine and all those lasted for well over 150,000 miles. The engine I am building right now will come very close to being what is known as a blue printed engine. Every thing has been maichined to match the part not the other way around
 

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