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Tractor will not start Farmall C

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drivemeinsane

New User
First let me say right out, I"m a novice at this!
I believe I have Farmall C, serial# 70893.
Last year when I stopped using the tractor it was running good.
Yesterday I started it up but it only ran for a few minutes then stalled.
Today I tried to start the tractor and it would only crank over but not start. So I changed the inline fuel filter, cleaned the plugs(really dirty with oil built up), dist. cap (points dirty) and rotor (pretty clean). Wires look in good shape.
When I open up the gas, the carb starts to leak a real good drip.
So again it will crank but will not run/start.
Any suggestions?
 

I'm wondering if the carburator float valve is stuck open thus the tractor is flooding when you try to start. It is not supposed to drip. Turn off the gas, let it sit until no more dripping, then try to start with gas off. It may start on gas remaining in the carburator then shortly run out. Clean the float valve and while you are at it be sure you have a free flow of gas from the tank (pencil sized stream) and that the carburator inlet screen is clean.

If no luck this way I'd check for spark by removing one spark plug wire and holding it near the block while cranking (use insulated pliers). If no spark check points and condenser.

Were it not for the dripping I would check for spark first.
 
Drive, If your carb. is dripping gas thats not good! Where the plugs wet when you took them out? I just posted the other day about my C and a Carter carb. leaking gas. I pulled the carb and opened it up and found the float pin had come out of it's spot and float was hung. Don't ask how these thing happen. Anyway I fixed it, and after she sat a while and dryed, it started right up. oldiron29
 
I have tried your suggestion of turning the gas off and starting, still will not start.
Where would the float valve and carburetor inlet screen be located?
I tried the spark plug wire and there is no spark. The points are worn. Can I buy the points and condenser at a regular part store or are they special to a tractor?
 
If you have a distributor you need to check for battery voltage to your coil. With your ignition switch in the on position and the points open you should have voltage on both small terminals on your coil. If there's no voltage you need to back at the ignition switch using a volt meter or test lite. Hal
PS: If there's no voltage at the switch you need to check the wire that's feeding battery voltage to your switch. It could be a bad connection or broken wire. You can run a separate wire from your battery to your coil just to see if the engine will start. This will bypass your ignition switch.
 
I have a Super C and I know its real easy to flood it. Sounds like your float could be stuck open with the gas dripping like you said and flooding the engine. May be able to just tap the carb lightly and get it to quit leaking. If that don't work you will probably have to take carb apart and check it out. I had alot of problem with my carb and had it rebuilt twice. I finally brought a new one on this site here. My tractor has run great ever since. That was about three years ago.
 
Lots of good advice. You'll need to learn the personality of your tractor.

If my Super C sits outside in the rain the oil bath air cleaner will take on just enough water to restrict air flow to the carb acting like your choking it and floods. If mine doesn't start right off and I smell gas I know to replace the oil in the air cleaner.

If it does flood, open the throttle wide open to get the excess fuel out.
 
Yes. The starter circuit will crank all day, even with the ignition off. The recommendation above is for a quick check of a the switch and wiring supplying a battery ignition (as opposed to a magneto).
 
Sounds like your float is stuck with the gas running out of the carb. I usually will shut the gas off when i park them in the fall if i dont forget but they always start in the spring. Just tap the carb to see if that will help.
 
Being a novice, my advice to you is to head down to your local library and check out the Time Life book on small engine repair. It's a quick read and it will cover the basics of how an engine works, how a carburetor works, etc..

Everything in that book translates over to a tractor engine. It's all the same basic stuff, times four for your four-cylinder engine. All the principles still apply.

About the only major difference will be the ignition system. On a small engine the ignition is part of the flywheel. On a tractor engine it is a separate unit, the distributor, usually powered by the battery. Sometimes they have a magneto.

Your tractor sounds pretty neglected. It could stand to have a full tune-up, both carburetor and distributor. Plan on having to work on both. If you have a mechanically inclined friend, maybe someone who works on old cars, now's the time to call him over for some beers and a little wrench time.
 
My Super M does this if the fuel sit. I give it a tap with a 3# hammer and it frees up. A couple ounces of Seafoam gas additive per gallon of gas will prevent it.
 
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