Cub 6 Volt Battery Discharging Getting Hot

RTR

Well-known Member
What I"ve got: Farmall Cub Tractor Serial #24,610
6 Volt Positive Ground System
6 Volt Generator
Distributor Ignition
New 6 Volt Battery & New Cables
Voltage Regulator System (pretty sure, it has ODB light switch and not the LHDB switch)


1st Issue: When the battery cables are hooked to the posts; there is a spark.
Cause: ? Possible Bad Ground ?
Solution: ?

2nd Issue: Once battery cables are hooked up, the ammeter shows a discharge of about 10 amps. Tractor is not running and no switches are on.
Cause: ?
Solution: ?

3rd Issue: I try to start the tractor, and when started switch is engaged, it just makes a loud "pop" at the battery connection and never engages starter.
Cause: ?
Solution: ?

4th Issue: When I try to "reconnect" the battery connection I notice that the battery cables are fairly Warm.
Cause: ?
Solution: ?AL Farmall Boy
Cub Star


Posts: 99
Joined: Tue Aug 10, 2010 6:38 pm
Zip Code: 35111
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Here are some pictures showing what I am working with. I am also going to try the Generator/Regulator Troubleshooting Flow Chart I got off of "FarmallBob's" Photobucket site. Sorry for the poor photos, as I had to take them last night becuase the tractor is in a different location that me during the work week. I tried to lay eveything out in a neat format so you guys could help me the best you can. Thanks so much in advance for your input and help! Look forward to hearing from you.
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Issues 1 and 2, most likely stuck cutout.

Issues 3 and 4 = poor (corroded/dirty/loose) connection(s) at battery terminals or POSSIBLY battery cable(s) bad INTERNALLY at battery end of cable(s).

(If all that checks out, battery COULD be bad internally, which can lead to a battery explosion.)
 
Does this tractor have the voltage regulator or the cutout system?? I thought it looked like the regulator to me, but I'm not sure. The battery and battery cables are BRAND NEW.



(quoted from post at 21:07:24 03/28/11) Issues 1 and 2, most likely stuck cutout.

Issues 3 and 4 = poor (corroded/dirty/loose) connection(s) at battery terminals or POSSIBLY battery cable(s) bad INTERNALLY at battery end of cable(s).

(If all that checks out, battery COULD be bad internally, which can lead to a battery explosion.)
 
#3 Starter may be locked up and you have poor connections to make a pop at the battery. 1&2 is the cut-out is stuck closed. A voltage regulator has a cut-out inside too.
 
What does it mean I need to do if the cut-out is stuck? Do I need to purchase a new regulator, or is it an easy fix?

The starter motor isn't stuck because the tractor was running when it was unloaded off the trailer. The guy had to crank on the starter for about 20-30 seconds before the engine even fired. Therefore I know the starter works well.

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(quoted from post at 22:16:31 03/28/11) #3 Starter may be locked up and you have poor connections to make a pop at the battery. 1&2 is the cut-out is stuck closed. A voltage regulator has a cut-out inside too.
 
From the pic it is a regulator and someone has changed the decal as original it would have been LHDB with a cut-out on the gen. So what else in the wiring mite be messed up as you dont run a wire from the field to the lite sw.
 
I am confused as to what you are saying.....I realize the decals have possibly been changed at some point; but the light switch itself is a 3 position ODB.


(quoted from post at 00:46:26 03/29/11) From the pic it is a regulator and someone has changed the decal as original it would have been LHDB with a cut-out on the gen. So what else in the wiring mite be messed up as you dont run a wire from the field to the lite sw.
 
You've got a MAJOR short circuit there somewhere.

My bet is on there being a wire rubbed-off somewhere in there. Probably behind the dashboard panel.
 
Remove the center Red wire from the regulator and check for current draw. If it no longer sparks the problem is the voltage regulator. If this is not the problem check the starter switch next.
 
I'm thinking you have a pull-type "mechanical" starter switch on the starter. Are the triangular shaped insulators on each side in good shape? If you tightened the cable on this switch, & didn't hold the stud from turning, the stationary contact could be grounding out on the switch sides.
If you have a solenoid / key switch, this won't apply.
 
The switch should be turned full CCW.
The Bat terminal on the voltage regulator should be taken off.
The battery cables and terminals need to be wire brushed to shiny metal then reinstalled. As they are connected there should be no sparking. If there is, something is either wired wrong, or it has a short to ground. If no spark, go to the generator and retouch that wire you removed. If it sparks it is a faulty regulator. If no spark, reconnect the terminal. Now use a jumper wire (solid 12 gauge or 10 gauge copper wire with plastic insulation removed from ends for 1/2") to jump for one second between the Bat terminal and the Arm terminal on the voltage regulator. Battery connected, engine off. It will spark some it is normal and will not hurt you. This polarizes the generator for charging.
If no discharge on the gauge start the tractor.
Always be prepared to remove the battery cable from the battery if things discharge, or smoke.
Jim
Bob diagrams

John directions
 
Thank you sooo much for all of the helpful tips. I will try all of this on Saturday when I return to where the tractor is; and will keep you all updated. THANKS AGAIN for you Kindness and Helpfulness!!!


(quoted from post at 09:06:32 03/29/11) The switch should be turned full CCW.
The Bat terminal on the voltage regulator should be taken off.
The battery cables and terminals need to be wire brushed to shiny metal then reinstalled. As they are connected there should be no sparking. If there is, something is either wired wrong, or it has a short to ground. If no spark, go to the generator and retouch that wire you removed. If it sparks it is a faulty regulator. If no spark, reconnect the terminal. Now use a jumper wire (solid 12 gauge or 10 gauge copper wire with plastic insulation removed from ends for 1/2") to jump for one second between the Bat terminal and the Arm terminal on the voltage regulator. Battery connected, engine off. It will spark some it is normal and will not hurt you. This polarizes the generator for charging.
If no discharge on the gauge start the tractor.
Always be prepared to remove the battery cable from the battery if things discharge, or smoke.
Jim
Bob diagrams

John directions
 

A BIG THANK YOU to EVERYONE who replied to my post to help me out on this little issue. I found the short to be in the voltage regulator on the Batt. terminal. Replaced it with a new one, and she doesn't spark, discharge, or anything. It is charging at about 5 amps. The generator was squeaking pretty badly, so I put a few drops of oil in the 2 oilers and I'm sure it will be fine.
 

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