Paint quality concern

Goodman · Mar 22, 2011

I am about half finished with restoration of Super A, but not completely satisfied with the paint. Using self etching primer which bonds excellent to bare metal. Then using Tisco paint with clear coat on top. It seems the Tisco paint scrapes off to easy and may not be bonding as well as it should to the primer.
Any Advise?

Anonymous-0 · Mar 22, 2011

What type of paint was it? Lacquer or enamel? Did you put hardner in the paint? Maybe a sealer/ adhesion promoter between the paint and the primer would help?

kennell · Mar 22, 2011

You haven't given us many details. Are you using a spray gun or rattle cans? Has the tractor been blasted?
I have no problems with the self etching primer. If it was me i'd use a epoxy high build primer over the self etching primer before shooting my paint. Kent

Goodman · Mar 22, 2011

I'm using Tallmans High Specialty coatings Industrial Enamel. Using a Spray Gun and adding Hardener at recommended Rate. Stripping down to bare metal before primer. The finish is great, just concerned about it lasting.

rustyfarmall · Mar 22, 2011

Forget the primer. IH never used it when they built the tractor, and you don't need it now. You will still get excellent results with a very high gloss.

sflem849 · Mar 22, 2011

It takes a couple weeks for paint to fully cure. That may be part of your problem.

Are you sure you can use clear coat on it? I thought hardener/reducer paints didn't use clear coat.

Goodman · Mar 22, 2011

I felt sure I wanted clear coat for protection. It had been a month or so for curing.

Do you all use a high temperature paint on the head. I have never seen one except in black?

Thanks

tractor vin · Mar 22, 2011

the time lapes in between etching and finish might be to long I think a week is max,you might need to scootch bright the primer before,clean with wax and grease remver,then finish paint and clear coat,good luck

Goodman · Mar 22, 2011

The time could be a factor. What do you mean by scotch bright the primer. I have sometimes recleaned with paint thinner prior to painting.

sflem849 · Mar 22, 2011

(quoted from post at 08:17:13 03/22/11) The time could be a factor. What do you mean by scotch bright the primer. I have sometimes recleaned with paint thinner prior to painting.

Read the can of primer (and paint) Usually they have a statement like "must recoat within XX hours" Paint usually has a statement like "must recoat within 3 hours, if not, then you must wait 5 days" I have seen primers say that you must do ____ if you don't paint over primer within XX hours/days.

mkirsch · Mar 22, 2011

What do you mean by scotch bright the primer.

Use a Scotch Brite scuffing pad to give the primer a little tooth before shooting the color.

Loren in WI · Mar 22, 2011

Self etch primer is only to be used on clean bare metal, that is going to have eighter epoxy or sandable primer applied over it. Applying too much primer will result in adhesion issues. I would recommend sand blasting the tractor, then applying 2 shots of epoxy primer, then applying your color in a wet on wet fashion. I use PPG epoxy and concept color on all my tractors. This will give you a paint job that WILL NEVER FADE or peel if done corectly. I have been painting for 25 years now, not saying there isnt a better way but this way works. It is not cheap by any means but it lasts. I am a certified PPG refinisher and have been for 15 years now.

Goodman · Mar 22, 2011

Thanks for your expertise. The tractor is all in pieces and most of it that remains to be painted has been stripped to bare metal and primed with self etch. Now needing to paint with color.
That being the case should I touch with another primer such as the epoxy sandable primer as you suggested....... then coat?

Thanks

Loren in WI · Mar 23, 2011

I would lightly scuff it and then epoxy. The epoxy I use has a 72 hour window, That means you have 72 hours after it is primed to apply color before you need to scuff it again. There is no easy way to scuff epoxy so I always get it painted asap.

Red Farmer 84 · Mar 24, 2011

I too have questions about paint quality or finish quality I should say.

I take the tractors I re-do and steamclean them after spraying down with oven cleaner and sanding where needed with sand paper. I usually don't use a primer unless the tractor is pretty rusty.

I use a top feed HVLP gun with Acrylic Enamel paint (Valspar) from Tractor Supply. I put a medium hardner in it and a reducer as well.

The pictures below are what I have a question about. My finish doesn't seem to come out in a consistent, smooth, clear fashion as the other finishes I've seen people paint on their tractors. In the 2 pictures, the same paint has been used (Valspar from Tractor Supply), but one has a Much Better finish (the tractor that has the canopy). For some reason my finish looks wet like the other one, but its not a consistent and smooth wet look, and it also looks "flashy" in places and dull in others.

Note: I don't know if this has anything to do with it, but I don't use a water filter on my air hose, nor have I ever drained the tank on the compressor since we've owned it (approx. 15 yrs) but I'm sure its fine.

Faster346 · Mar 24, 2011

One thing I have noticed about my Tisco painted tractor, it seems to chip or flake very easy, regardless if the surface was primered or not (I primered some parts, and just painted others) though I've had good luck with Valspars Restoration Series IH red.

Goodman · Mar 25, 2011

If I switch to the valspar is there a color difference.

Faster346 · Mar 25, 2011

(quoted from post at 05:38:47 03/25/11) If I switch to the valspar is there a color difference.

Nope, I actually switched half way through on my last paintjob of my C. The chassis is done in Tisco, and the gas tank, hood, and grill I did in Valspar.

Loren in WI · Mar 28, 2011

You need to drain that compressor every day, very important. I have less that 12 percent moisture in my air I spray with. I drain have a air dryer and refrigerator, then it goes through dessicant before it gets to my gun. I do not have much experience with enamal paint. It was obsolete 25 years ago when I went to trade school. It is outdated old school technology, not trying to offend but it is. I use acylic urethane. It will be replaced by waterborne soon. I would say technique and temp and humidity all have played a part in your paint jobs. Urethane is so affected by airline moisture and many other factors. In wisconsin we are going to be required to paint in booths with 98 percent of overspray being trapped in filters and all kinds of other fun stuff. The days of do it yourself paint jobs will be leaving soon, just like ac freon did. you can reach me at [email protected] with more questiuons if you like or give me your number. Goodluck

charles todd · Mar 29, 2011

By looking at Faster346's C I would say prep seems more important than the paint. If that paint is Tisco and Valspar, then why am I considering automotive paint for my tractors? That tractor looks SWEET!!!

I keep them under cover and not outside. I had bought some IH Red for my 504 and after reading all the negatives on Valspar I was going to use it on my gooseneck instead and buy automotive urathane. Now I may spray it on the Farmall after all!

I have a newly acquired AC 180 and I will start on it. I will use the Valspar and see if I can match Faster346's shine. Is that the standard or Restoration Valspar? Hardener?

[b:201a330761]Project AC 180[/b:201a330761]

CT

sflem849 · Mar 29, 2011

(quoted from post at 09:03:46 03/29/11) By looking at Faster346's C I would say prep seems more important than the paint. If that paint is Tisco and Valspar, then why am I considering automotive paint for my tractors? That tractor looks SWEET!!!

I keep them under cover and not outside. I had bought some IH Red for my 504 and after reading all the negatives on Valspar I was going to use it on my gooseneck instead and buy automotive urathane. Now I may spray it on the Farmall after all!

I have a newly acquired AC 180 and I will start on it. I will use the Valspar and see if I can match Faster346's shine. Is that the standard or Restoration Valspar? Hardener?

They must be using the Restoration series Valspar, bc I bought the standard stuff and it is JUNK. It won't spray the way it is. You "can't" thin it so it will spray. The best way I found was to put it on with a brush. It is shiny and it would look good if I were to post a picture of it...right up until you are standing next to it.

BIGBOB2 · Mar 29, 2011

So far as draining an air compressor, unless you live in AZ, after 15 years I'd put money on the fact that water will come out of the bottom of that tank if it does indeed have a drain valve. Depends on humidity levels where you live. I've seen 50 gallon tanks with 20 - 30 gallons of water come out when they had been neglected for long periods of time. That was in the mid-Atlantic portion of the country.

We wrote the book on humidity. ;- )

The clue to H2O building up is when the comp. seems to constantly cycle after using only a small quantity of air. You can get fancy and put a "spitter" valve on it. They pretty much keep the tank well drained.

Paint quality concern

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