wiring diagram on H

I know there are many posts about this, but I cannot find an exact diagram matching what I have.

I have a 49' H, distributor, 4-post light switch, generator and regulator. I think I am down to figuring out what wire goes on the "L" ter. of the VR and where it terminates to. What about a feed for the lights (front and rear)

Again, sorry to ask this same question, but I have spent hours trying to put this back together.

any help is greatly appeciated.

The VR's "L" (load) terminal is the supply for all electrical loads except the starter. It should be wired to the "hot" side of both the ignition and light switches.
voltage regulator wiring

Bob,

Thanks for the link, but this is one of the diagrams I looked at. I have a 4-post switch and the fuse is built in. I am still confused

Use an ohmmeter or test light on the switch to see what each terminal does. There should be a terminal that is dead when the switch is off & when it is on, will feed the lights.

OK - you have a couple options:

1 - If your lights and ignition are already wired and work, and the ammeter shows discharge when you turn on the ign/lights you are all set. Simply leave the "L" terminal unconnected.

2 - If the ign and light switches are not connected yet:

- Run a wire from the "L" terminal to the hot side of the ign switch.

- Connect a a short jumper wire from hot side of the ign switch to the fuse holder on the light switch.

Does this help?

Bob,

Not good with the pics,. but here is what I have:

1. Discharge side of gauge is a wire to one side of switch
2. Same side is an old original wire that jumpers to the fuse lag

So I should have another wire from the fuse lag which is jumpered to the discharge side of the gauge to the "L" terminal on the VR?

If I understand you correctly you are wired OK as it is now. Simply leave the "L" terminal unconnected!

That is what I thought. I have no lights and the gauge does not move when either the igintion is turned on or the lights.

Everything worked before.

The L terminal on the VR is used by the system to supply load current to the tractor directly from the generator. The Bat terminal is used to charge the battery through the amp gauge. If you leave the lights hooked up to the amp gauge and ignore the L terminal, it will work fine. If you disconnect the lights and ignition switch supply wire from the amp gauge and hook it to the L terminal it will work fine. In all cases the grounded light switch terminals L and H positions. should not be attached to anything because the regulator is now in control of the gen. Jim

I just went back out to look at evrything again. when I attempt to put the + ground cable on - it sparks!

Adding to what I wrote earlier, I have a jumper from the "F" on VR to "F" on gen. I also have a wire on "F" VR to the lag on the resister on the switch.

No wire is attached to the light switch grounding terminal. This is the terminal that has a resistor attached, that is not a part of the lights.
When the switch is in the L position Full ccw the field of the gen was originally grounded through the resistor to the body of the light switch. when the Switch is in the H position, or D position, or B position the same terminal id directly grounded.
This terminal needs to be disconnected, it is not used. The light switch is used and gets its power from the fuse. There is a front light terminal that attaches to the front lights, and a rear light terminal that attaches to the rear light. The front light terminal is connected through a resistor (different one than used for the field circuit) when the Sw is on D, and through no resistor when the Sw is on B.
The rear light is on full power in both D and B positions. Use an Ohm meter to assure these connections. there should be no sparks when connecting the cable unless it is wired wrong, or the light switch is on! Jim

Jim,

I reviewed the different diagrams in Bob's "photobucket" diagrams. Diagram #3, show a wire attached to that resistor and attaching on the other end to the "F" terminal on the VR.

that is what I did, I should take it off?

Yes. The voltage regulator completely eliminates the use of the light switch in the charging system. remove the wire from the switch, and the VR. There is only one wire from the Field terminal on the gen. It goes to the F terminal on the VR, no other wires.
I do not think, however, that the discharge is caused by that wire. it would just override the voltage regulator and make it charge. There should be no spark when connecting the battery with every thing turned off (light switch Full CCW) Jim

Jim,

Down to the lights now. I have the ignition switch discharging as it should when I pull it out. The lights however still do not work. the amp gauge does not discharge either.

I have re-checked my light wires, made sure the coiled resistor is not touching anything that it shouldn't but still nothing.

sometimes, not all the time, when I attempt to put the + cable on the bat. it sparks. I have noticed a trend that if the light switch is in the ON position it does not.

do teh swicthes go bad. all worked well, before I started my re-wire :?

Here Goes:
There are two resistors on a 4 position switch and one fuse.
one of the resistors is used to reduce charging (field control) and it is not used at all, the terminas is not used either. The terminal (formerly connected to the Field terminal of the gen) will show ground to light switch body when on H D or B. it will show a resistance of between 2 and 4 ohms (if it is good) when in the L position Full CCW. If this terminal is connected to anything with volts, it will spark
After assuring it is not connected, the remaining terminals (three) should be the input to the fuse, the rear light supply, and the headlight supply. If the switch was completely disconnected from the wires, these terminals should show no connection to the switch body in any position. If they do the switch is bad.
When connecting the wires connect the supply wire first. It should test voltage with the battery connected. With the switch turned to either L or H, there should be no voltage at either the rear light terminal or the Headlight terminal. On D (third click CW)the rear light terminal should show full volts, the headlight should show reduced voltage, but not much).
On B the voltage should be full volts on both Rear and Headlight terminals.
If this checks, and your test light confirms the fact, test the wires going to each light at the light. if no voltage when on D or B , the wire is bad. if voltage but no light the bulb bulb ground, or fixture groung is bad.
Best of luck, Jim