Break on a Super H

Ok i have a super H farmall and the left break on the tractor dont push as easy as the right one. Should i pull appart the break and clean it??? just watever you think i should do about it. Thank You

Do they both lock the wheels -- if not the easy one may have oil on it, or the disks could be worn, or the hard one may be binding somewhere. Only way to know is to take them off, not much of a job. Results should be self-explanatory. Before you do, adjust both to the same pedal clearance.

Left brakes...they get pushed alot plowing. Don't know the history of it though, so I'm guessin. I would pull them off and take a look.. Shawn

(quoted from post at 17:49:58 03/16/11) Left brakes...they get pushed alot plowing. Don't know the history of it though, so I'm guessin. I would pull them off and take a look.. Shawn

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They also get locked for the parking BRAKE and people drive away with it on.

If one is way more sensitive than the other, it may be beacuse the brakes wear in a way that causes them to over react to their servo action. They are designed to self energize. when the disk expander is moved by the linkages, the motion of the disks helps drag the plates farther apart. This assists in braking effort with less pedal pressure. If the balls are rusty, or the ramps they run in have grooves, or the friction material is too thin, or there is sticky grease or glaze on the disks, the problem will occur.
The total stack height clearance should be about .050 to .080" measuring the disks and plate, then comparing that total to the housing space between the tractor friction surface, and the housing surface. (and adjusters on the rod not pre pulling the expander)

New friction disks may not provide this reduced clearance due to wear on the housing and plates and brake cover. (Worn steel surfaces)

If this is the case, the housing can be machined thinner at its inner contact surface to bring the stack into proximity.

Non-directional sanding of components with 250 grit paper will help when putting them together.

A skiff of silver anti-seize compound on the balls and ramps works for me. Others believe they should be dry, others use a bit of graphite and a tiny bit of grease to hold the graphite on the balls and ramps. Do not lube them liberally.

Leaky shaft seals are also a problem, and if leaking must be replaced.13:17:00
67.72.98.45

The measurement from the mating surface of the housing casting (where it attaches to the tractor) to friction surface down in its depths is important.


Ask us about that if they leak. Jim

I have a super H that does the exact same thing. I have not looked into the issue, because both of the brakes work, it just seems like one engages sooner than the other.

These disk brakes work great....IF they are maintained on a regular basis. Most folks, going way back to when the tractors were new, didn"t/don"t make the effort to do regular, routine maintenance on them. By all means, take them off (both sides) and clean and inspect them. They will be dirty and maybe greasy. Blow the dirt out. If there is grease inside the housing, you probably have a bad seal on the shaft. This MUST be fixed or you will never have good brakes. Don"t panic, it is realy quite an easy job. Also make sure you have good "boots" on the outside where the linkage goes through. If you use the tractor, you should clean these brakes twice a year. If it is only a "show/parade" tractor, I would still clean them every sping because moisture will condensate inside the housing and affect the brake performance. These brakes actually work better when they are used daily. Touch up the pads and metel with 240 grit emery cloth each time you clean them for best results. If you have to replace the seals on the shaft, you will need a seal and a large o ring, both available at IH. Like I said, this is not a hard job. I did both brakes on nine tractors last year. I could tell some hadn"t been inspected for decades (really). Some of them had shelled corn inside. I couldn"t believe they worked at all.