1939 H Questions.

JaredK

New User
I have a couple of quick questions for you gents. I have a 1939 H. Serial # 2126. I've got water in the oil, and I have traced it back to the freeze plug behind the timing cover. Where do I find replacement freeze plugs? I have looked around online, but haven't had much luck finding any.

And also. I'm going to have to put rubber on the rear and I'm cleaning up a set of 38" rims. I know that the rims were originally galvanized from the factory. What color do you guys usually paint your rims? I used Van Sickle brand aluminum paint on the front rims, but I think it looks cheap. I was thinking about using the same color gray that they use on late model CaseIH tractors. Any opinions on paint color?
 
Any of your local auto parts stores should have them . Take the old part along or make an accurate measurement of the hole. At one time they had neophrene plugs that could be tightened with a wrench. Hal
 
In my opinion Van Sickle has lousy paint. I use PPG 8568, a silver gray color that is one code for GM rally wheels. Some do use the current CaseIH color and seem satisfied. It's too dark for me. However, peoples opinions, including mine are simply opinions not necessarily based on fact.
 
Think thats a 1-3/4 inch expansion plug in the front. May want to check rear of block expansion plugs also. Think there 2 inch size.
 
It's alkyd enamel, 30's technology. It will fade. If waxed and kept inside it lasts longer. Same as the paint on many of the 40's-60's cars. Had to be waxed repeatedly to maintain a shine, and eventually wore thru to the primer -- been there, done that. Urethane is a massive improvement.
 
Most of these type paints are acrylic alkyds or modified alkyds. These type paints are not as durable as an enamel or polyurethane such as an automotive paint. The auto paints are very available, you are just looking in the farm stores and not the automotive paint stores. They are more costly too, because they are more durable. So it depends on how long you want your restoration to last and how you will be storing it. The cheaper farm alkyds fade in UV pretty bad. The auto paints do too, but at a much much slower rate. Auto paints are also much more resistant to chemicals such as fuel or hot coolant spills.
 
For your wheels I use Rust-oleum HAMMERED. It comes out looking almost like galvanized. You may want to test it on another old wheel to see what it looks like.
Bob
 
Two types of alkyds, the old type developed in the 30's and an "acrylic modified" alkyd that is newer. The acrylic modified alkyd contains UV inhibitors and is much better than the old type, still not urethane, but decent,likely as good or nearly as good as acrylic enamel. Most tractor stores sell the old kind. Careful reading of the label on the can may or may not say if it is acrylic modified. I believe most of the tractor DEALER stores including CaseIH sell acrylic modified, but I am not sure of that since I don't use it.
 
I used the CNH Argent/Silver paint and I like the looks of it. It is a little dark, but cheaper than getting them hot dipped!
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Sorry, can't see them good with the weird light.
 

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