(quoted from post at 07:19:53 03/08/11) Does anyone have any pics of an alternator mounted on an H. Looking for some ideas on what i will need for a mount.

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Dell
 
I just went through this process, let me know if you have any questions.
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Here you go. This is a Delco 10SI and it just fits under the hood. It is not wired right, so I need to fix that someday and put in a working alternator. This uses the stock mounting bracket and a piece of threaded rod. I flipped the bracket over so it angle down and put a piece of rubber betwwen the alternator and the valve cover at the suggestion of some YT folks so that they would not rub.
Zach
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I have pictures below using a hytachi alternator, about $50 at an auto parts store and a steiner aftermarket mounting bracket. There are other pictures out there using the stock bracket and a lenght or rod, either seems to work fine. There is also the electrical side of things, you'll need to buy a Radio Shack diode, solder it between a couple pieces of wire and also introduce a fuseable link and possibly a resister coil. Depending on how much time you want to spend and how handy you are, you might just want to buy the complete kit from Steiners.com and safe yourself a lot of hastle.
 
I have no picture, but I built one for an M last summer that allowed more belt adjustment with a SI series Delco alternator.
The lack of room between the valve cover and hood makes for little side to side belt adjustment.
We built this bracket with 2 inch long slots where the bracket bolts to the engine, alowing the alternator to move up / down plus right / left. This allows a lot more alternator belt adjustment.

Another trick we used on a relatives 450 that needed a new alternator belt, but had been neglected and wet for years, the fan belt pulley was badly corroded, so getting it adjusted loose to install a new alternator belt was going to be a major pain.
The fan belt was in good shape and plenty tight, so we did not mess with it. We cut off the old alternator belt and replaced it with NU-T-link V belt. This is a belt formed of many little links that can be set to any length and the ends can be coupled while installed on the machine.

Makes it very easy to replace an alternator / generator belt on those old IH adjustable pulleu setups, plus being able to easily remove a link when wear and stretching makes the belt too long.
NU T Link belt
 
Sorry, the belt we used was the power twist t link.
Avalible at most bearings and drives type shops.
 
Sorry, the belt we used was the power twist t link.
Avalible at most bearings and drives type shops.
 
I converted my 1951 Farmall H several years ago using a Hitachi 14231 12 volt negative ground alternator. I used the original generator mounting bracket by just turning it upside down and using a long bolt as the lower pivot for the bracket and alternator. The upper adjustment arm was fine the way it was. Also, I was able to use the existing original IH generator belt as no length changes were required. I put a split tooth lockwasher between the two pulley halves as the Farmall belt is a little wider then the drive belt the alternator is designed for so the belt would be further down in the pulley. You will have to open up the holes in the either the generator bracket or the alternator (I don't recall which) as the Hitachi is in metric while the bracket is SAE sizing. I used some washers and cut some tube spacers to place the alternator in line with the pulley driving the alternator. I still had sufficient room for belt adjustment within the limited confines between the valve cover and the tractor hood. I have documented the entire process I used in converting the 1951 H to 12 volt and if you would like me to send it to you by email please let me know as my email is open on this post.
I have since become a fan of just leaving the H and smaller tractors as 6 volts by making a few improvements to the wiring and and connections as the 6 volt system is certainly adequate for starting them in about any weather if maintained correctly with the right size and shortest possible cables, clean and bright connections, etc. It is your choice but I just cleaned the connections and replaced the smaller sized cables on the existing 6 volt factory system on my 1952 H and it starts just as well as the 12 volt 1951 now. Hope this helps, Hal.
 
Thanks guys
I think you got it covered. I thougt I could find it in the arcives Dell no luck. Always check there first on such a common topic.
 

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