Farmall MD is done for now

I finally found a big enough chunk of time to fire it up and test drive it. There were about 5 leaks to take care of from reinstallation, but other than that no problems. Time will tell if I really know how to install a clutch, but other than that everything is good to go.
The downside...I thought I saw the head gasket leaking in the right front corner when I drove the tractor to the shop. I know this is a common spot and expected the worst so we just filled it with water for the test drive. There was a decent stream of water coming from that spot the whole test drive and it never got better. I haven't heard of any miracle cures, but please feel free to enlighten me. Does the water ALWAYS leak out when the RF corner fails or does it go in sometimes? If it always goes out I could at least do a little work with it, but it could always sit in the shed another year.

Did you check for cracks. Did you check the top surface of the
block and the matching surface of the head for straightness.
Did you thoroughly clean both surfaces. Did you use a new head
gasket. Did you use alignment studs to position the gasket
when reinstalling the head. Did you torque the head then
retorgue it after it warmed up. It should not leak. Water could
be going every which way.

I have an Md which had the exact same problem. I replaced the head gasket with one from CNH, and that fixed it. Retorque is of course very necessary.
I retorqued mine to 125 lbs. I have narrowed the fuel leaks down to one slight one, but these tractors can drive you crazy with seepages. You think you have your leaks fixed one day and you'll see the same leak a few days later. Best of luck.

If it is only leaking water out to the exterior, and no oil is appearing with it, I would drain the system down to lower than the leak, clean it good, and use a hacksaw blade to recess the gasket a tiny bit (1/16") then fill the location with wind shield adhesive (urethane) and let it cure with a lamp heating it for 2 days. That material is way sticky and should seal it up. (cheap and worth a try) Jim

(quoted from post at 20:02:10 03/06/11)
Did you check for cracks. Did you check the top surface of the
block and the matching surface of the head for straightness.
Did you thoroughly clean both surfaces. Did you use a new head
gasket. Did you use alignment studs to position the gasket
when reinstalling the head. Did you torque the head then
retorgue it after it warmed up. It should not leak. Water could
be going every which way.

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I never popped the head (yet)

(quoted from post at 21:04:52 03/06/11) If it is only leaking water out to the exterior, and no oil is appearing with it, I would drain the system down to lower than the leak, clean it good, and use a hacksaw blade to recess the gasket a tiny bit (1/16") then fill the location with wind shield adhesive (urethane) and let it cure with a lamp heating it for 2 days. That material is way sticky and should seal it up. (cheap and worth a try) Jim

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Cool tip, better than having to take the head off. They want CRAZY money for a head gasket from what I have seen.

(quoted from post at 20:05:02 03/06/11) I have an Md which had the exact same problem. I replaced the head gasket with one from CNH, and that fixed it. Retorque is of course very necessary.
I retorqued mine to 125 lbs. I have narrowed the fuel leaks down to one slight one, but these tractors can drive you crazy with seepages. You think you have your leaks fixed one day and you'll see the same leak a few days later. Best of luck.

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I wonder if I just torque the head even though the head has been on for ??? years. It might not matter bc you couldn't get any more crush on the gasket. I was going to run the rack so it wouldn't be that big of deal to try it.

Thats the common leak point, did it on my Super MD, and a freinds MD. Good to hear you got it going again.


Anderw

Ground Black Pepper! and it wont leak again!

I had a V6 in a car that had over 200,000 miles on it and it started leaking water into one cyl. I went to a parts store and bought a 20.00 bottle of sealer, the liquid kind with copper in it. I dumped it in the radiator and ran it like the bottle said and it stoped the water leak and I have put another 25,000 miles on it and it is good so far. The heater still works great also so it didn't plug the heater core. In my case it was a cheap fix that worked. I know that if it was my tractor I would try a bottle before I would tear it down.
Bob

(quoted from post at 08:50:03 03/07/11) Ground Black Pepper! and it wont leak again!

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Hmm, cool. I guess it can't hurt. I suppose I could run Bar's leak or some magic potion, too. I just get worried about putting something other than coolant/water in it. That stuff can't all just lodge in the hole some of it has to go into other places.

I saw it first when we fired it up to take it to the shop and I knew it was going to be a downer. I was just hoping to finally have this thing in 100% condition so I could use it. I still think I might run it with the leak a little. I have to plow 2 acres this spring and I don't think that will cause a problem. I will just watch it to make sure EVERYTHING is leaking out and no milky oil or scuzzy coolant. Then again...maybe I might just wait and fix it right. I hate putting coolant in it only to drain it to fix the head gasket. I always worry about contamination after you drain it.

Yes check the torques. I have found loose ones on occasion. Mine seeps oil at that spot when under heavy load and the oil is too thick for the cold weather that set in before I was ready for it. All bolts are at full torque too. That area of the head doesn't get a lot of clamping pressure apparently.

I would throw in some stop leak or some pepper and have a go at it. It will likely leak less when warmed up well. With two acres you won't be stressed from watching the temp for days on end and be likely to forget, and if you have a two bottom then life gets easier too. On the other hand, running a disk will put some heat in it. Those things can be a load.

Be very careful of the temperature. Do NOT let it get above 200. EVER. Once they are above the thermostat bad things happen to a gas start.

Congrats on having a runner, even if a slightly hobbled one. 8)