Once I get my 1939 A running and climb up in the seat, the next step is to put it in gear. But I am getting a LOT of grinding no matter what gear I put it in. Once it's in gear, and if I change, it's not bad. But the first time is tough. What do I need, an adjustment or a throw out bearing (if one exists)?
- Thread starter Enar
- Start date
Lou from Wi.
Well-known Member
Most of these older tractors don't have synchro in the transmission, meaning when you start it in neutral they will spin the transmission gears(even though it doesn't go anywhere) so when you get on it and push the clutch in,it will take a little time for the transmission gears to stop moving.That is usually what is going on.Now sometimes the clutch wears down and even though you have the clutch pushed in,it still is turning(slightly) the transmission gears,and when you try to select a gear,it will grind until it slows itself down enough to go into that gear.Just my 2 cents worth.Hope this helps,
Regards,
Victor
Regards,
Victor
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Beyond the ideas below are two possibilities. The pilot bearing on the snout of the clutch shaft (center of flywheel) can be dry or gummy and cause drag. Most can be lubricated, check the manual.
A slightly warped disk can drag on the PP or Flywheel and also cause spinning of the gears. Push in the clutch and count to 10 then shift. If it still grinds, check the level of fluid in the trans. If it is low, or someone put hytran in it rather than the 80-140 oil it should have, will also allow excess gear run on. Jim
A slightly warped disk can drag on the PP or Flywheel and also cause spinning of the gears. Push in the clutch and count to 10 then shift. If it still grinds, check the level of fluid in the trans. If it is low, or someone put hytran in it rather than the 80-140 oil it should have, will also allow excess gear run on. Jim
gene bender
Well-known Member
Probably its the pilot bearing in the crankshaft dry and dirty. There is no way to get any lube to it without splitting. Make sure the trannys lube is up to the level. The level plug is behind the brake rod on the left side. Use 90wt. Mite also want to check the free pedal on the clutch to make sure when pedal is pushed the disc is free. You can lube that bearing from the left side bell housing. You can use a lite to see the zerk.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Very common with any tractor. You need to push the clutch down count to 50 then shift it into gear. If the transmission has UTF in it and cold out it is even worse but if 90W and cold count to 25. Or yes as the others have said pilot bearing problem is clutch adjustment
Letter series excluding SMTA, should not grind at idle after less than 5 seconds after pushing in the clutch--I have 7 of them, they all shift easily. My 460 is another story, at least 10 seconds, more if fluid is warmed up. A lot of people forget they are tractors, open up the throttle and try to shift, doesn't work.
teddy52food
Well-known Member
Try bringing the lever all the way to the right where reverse is down or back. Then put pressure up or forewards where there is no gear & slowly slide to the left & up into first.
I went through the same thing with a nice SA that I couldn't shift unless I shut it down. After I did the following it shifted smooth all the time.
Drain the old trans oil out - it's old it is prbably half water.
Flush it if needed.
Then fill with half 80-90wt and half Lucas HD Oil Stabilizer.
(You could use more or all Lucas if you wanted)
The Lucas is sticky and puts more drag on the gears to overcome the sticky pilot bushing allowing the gears to stop when the clutch is depressed.
Give it a try and I hope it works.
Dell
Drain the old trans oil out - it's old it is prbably half water.
Flush it if needed.
Then fill with half 80-90wt and half Lucas HD Oil Stabilizer.
(You could use more or all Lucas if you wanted)
The Lucas is sticky and puts more drag on the gears to overcome the sticky pilot bushing allowing the gears to stop when the clutch is depressed.
Give it a try and I hope it works.
Dell
rustred
Well-known Member
totally true. grinding is not normal . W-6 is one of the easiest tractors to shift upshift or down shift and never hear a gear grind. i have a lot of tractors also and i cant pick one out that grinds gears. its either the operator or problem with the tractor. the 560 and 660 take a couple seconds but you can shift without grinding.
Make sure the clutch is adjusted properly.
I had a Cub that was like this. If you let out the clutch while it was in neutral, you were screwed. The only way to get it back into gear was to let it grind until everything stopped spinning. Going from gear to gear was fine, but that was because the wheels stopped the transmission from spinning.
In my case, I went in through the clutch inspection hole in the bottom, and made a slight adjustment to the three fingers on the pressure plate, so that they had just a hair more travel.
All I did was loosen the lock nuts and turn the adjustment screws about 1/8 of a turn. Can't remember which direction, though.
The purpose was to get more lift on the pressure plate so that it would release the clutch disk. It worked. No more grinding.
I had a Cub that was like this. If you let out the clutch while it was in neutral, you were screwed. The only way to get it back into gear was to let it grind until everything stopped spinning. Going from gear to gear was fine, but that was because the wheels stopped the transmission from spinning.
In my case, I went in through the clutch inspection hole in the bottom, and made a slight adjustment to the three fingers on the pressure plate, so that they had just a hair more travel.
All I did was loosen the lock nuts and turn the adjustment screws about 1/8 of a turn. Can't remember which direction, though.
The purpose was to get more lift on the pressure plate so that it would release the clutch disk. It worked. No more grinding.
Grinding is usually caused by worn out gears and bearings. Thus it is probably telling you that something along those lines needs to be fixed. If you are like me, transmissions kind of terrify me, and the thought of tearing one appart is intimidating. I have heard that putting in 85-140 gear lube can quiet a transmision down alot. So I might try that. Could be a temporary fix for you.
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy